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Safety Dance
AI2 Steep Snow
Avg: 2.3 from 6
votes
Routes in Mount San Antonio (Mt. Baldy)
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Baldy Bowl T Mod. Snow |
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Bifurcate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a AI1-2 M4 Mod. Snow |
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Commando Couloir III AI2, 800M 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2 Steep Snow |
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Creavature police WI2 |
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Cuidado couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- M1 Steep Snow R |
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Devil's Backbone Mod. Snow |
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Lightning Couloir I AI1 260M AI1 Mod. Snow |
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Mt. Baldy Trail (aka South Ridge or Bear Flat Trail) TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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North Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 |
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Northeast Face Mod. Snow |
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Out of Bounds WI2+ PG13 |
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Phoenix Wings WI2-3 |
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Piramide Del Sol T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Safety Dance AI2 Steep Snow |
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Ski Hut Boulder Left T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Snake and Bake 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a AI1-2 Steep Snow |
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Tormentor, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2 M3- Easy Snow R |
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Upper South Ridge Easy Snow |
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West Face Mod. Snow |
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‘Narrow Gully’ T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 Mod. Snow X |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Ice, Snow, Grade II |
| GPS: | 34.28891, -117.64673 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,911 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | J.B. on Feb 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
I originally put this in as lightning couloir, but when I did it, I took the variation known as safety dance. You start up Big Butch Wash after parking in the lot for the ski hut trail, and head up until you get to the bend(waterfall was present when I was there). You will see a couloir known as lightning couloir to your right. Partway up the route, take a left up a short mixed section, through a couple more mixed sections straight up from there, then pull up a steeper notch at the top that has routes with actual ice that supports you!(at least it did for me..). This brings you onto Thunder Ridge and you can head up to Thunder Mountain peak or find a route to Telegraph Peak etc...
Location
Park in the same place as you do for Baldy's ski hut trail and head up Big Butch Wash. When you reach a waterfall that can be passed to continue on Big Butch Wash, turn right and head up the prominent couloir. Careful as this is avalanche area.
Protection
We soloed this route with an Ice axe and extra tool each. You could probably get away with a standard axe if it's snowy enough, but then again, lots of snow makes for a lot of postholing and an exhausting time. No pro required but if with a beginner then pickets, small alpine rack might be useful. Helmets and crampons also required. Skis or Snowboard HIGHLY recommended in powdery conditions.
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