Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mount San Antonio (Mt. Baldy)

Baldy Ski Hut V0- 4-
Commando Couloir III AI2, 800M 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2
Creavature police WI2
Devil's Backbone
Heels Please V5 6C PG13
Lightning Couloir I AI1 260M AI1
North Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2
Northeast Face
Phoenix Wings WI2-3
Safety Dance AI2
San Antonio Falls T WI1
Ski Hut Boulder Left T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
South Bowl T
Taco Sauce T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3-4 X
Upper South Ridge
West Face
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,611 total, 17/month
Shared By: J.B. on Feb 14, 2010
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


I originally put this in as lightning couloir, but when I did it, I took the variation known as safety dance. You start up Big Butch Wash after parking in the lot for the ski hut trail, and head up until you get to the bend(waterfall was present when I was there). You will see a couloir known as lightning couloir to your right. Partway up the route, take a left up a short mixed section, through a couple more mixed sections straight up from there, then pull up a steeper notch at the top that has routes with actual ice that supports you!(at least it did for me..). This brings you onto Thunder Ridge and you can head up to Thunder Mountain peak or find a route to Telegraph Peak etc...


Park in the same place as you do for Baldy's ski hut trail and head up Big Butch Wash. When you reach a waterfall that can be passed to continue on Big Butch Wash, turn right and head up the prominent couloir. Careful as this is avalanche area.


We soloed this route with an Ice axe and extra tool each. You could probably get away with a standard axe if it's snowy enough, but then again, lots of snow makes for a lot of postholing and an exhausting time. No pro required but if with a beginner then pickets, small alpine rack might be useful. Helmets and crampons also required. Skis or Snowboard HIGHLY recommended in powdery conditions.
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Added a new area for The Three T's, could the owner or an admin move this route there? Thanks. Jan 10, 2012
First off, I put this under Baldy's page because of the close proximity and I didn't want to make a whole new area. Second, if my descriptions confuse anyone feel free to revise, criticize, or pm me if you want details. Feb 14, 2010