Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Pedro Venancio & Ruben Contreras Feb 13, 2022
Page Views: 578 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ben Contreras on Feb 14, 2022
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

READ THIS FIRST

We recommend this route be done before 6am or as close to sunrise as possible on a weekday. This will reduce the chances of people being on the trail or on the bowl. We also recommend this route be done only via top rope with at least one back up anchor and not be done on lead via trad unless you are confident you will not fall at all. Falling on this route could destabilize the entire formation causing hundreds of tons worth of rock to fall, killing you and anyone below. This would also likely rip out the anchors (highly recommended you use minimum 1 backup anchor here) and your partner would go flying. We also recommend you rappel down using the large tree directly behind the pyramid top as the anchor and kick every single boulder before you commit to climbing it. The majority of the climb is basically boulders bigger than you playing Tetris forming a crack that goes up and holding a section of the pyramid buttress in place. DO NOT climb this without confirming the boulders are secure enough to climb. We also recommend you use a 30 meter rope to tie one of the top boulders since it's semi-loose and poses the largest threat of all of the boulders on this route (see pictures below for which boulder to tie). If you top rope this route use the tree behind the pyramid top as a primary anchor and the crack on the left of the pyramid top if you're directly facing it. Use the boulder behind the pyramid top as the anchor for the tied boulder. 

BETA

As you're facing the pyramid climb up from the right side and work your way to the farthest left crack. Give it a few moves and work your way slowly up. Stem when possible, avoid pulling directly down on any singular boulder and avoid putting all of your weight on any one boulder. Distribute your weight as evenly as possible. One you reach the thin finger crack, you're at the crux. Lie back on that finger crack, work your way up, avoid touching the tied boulder too much and continue onward to the crack below the pyramid top. Stand on top and enjoy the selfie. 

This entire route requires calm, careful climbing. Never commit to a move before you inspect it first. Again, we highly recommend this not be done via lead unless you're experienced enough and know for a fact you will not whip or fall on any section. Even on top rope you need to be cautious of what you're doing. It's a really fun climb with some of the best views I have ever seen on the bowl. Specially if you're climbing it as the sun is rising. 

NOTE: The pyramid buttress is a very distinct feature, so although I have never heard of anyone climbing it before us. I still think someone might have. If you have proof of someone doing it before we did, please let me know.

Location Suggest change

This route climbs the pyramid buttress via the left crack

Protection Suggest change

One 60 meter rope, one 30 meter rope (see description), slings 30cm-240 cm, rack of totems black-orange, C4 #1-3, 5-7 alpine quick draws

Photos

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