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Out of Bounds
WI2+ PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Mount San Antonio (Mt. Baldy)
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Baldy Bowl T Mod. Snow |
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Bifurcate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a AI1-2 M5 Mod. Snow |
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Commando Couloir III AI2, 800M 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2 Steep Snow |
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Creavature police WI2 |
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Cuidado couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- M1 Steep Snow R |
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Devil's Backbone Mod. Snow |
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Lightning Couloir I AI1 260M AI1 Mod. Snow |
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Mt. Baldy Trail (aka South Ridge or Bear Flat Trail) TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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North Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 |
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Northeast Face Mod. Snow |
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Out of Bounds WI2+ PG13 |
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Phoenix Wings WI2-3 |
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Piramide Del Sol T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Safety Dance AI2 Steep Snow |
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Ski Hut Boulder Left T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Snake and Bake 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a AI1-2 Steep Snow |
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Tormentor, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI1-2 M3- Easy Snow R |
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Upper South Ridge Easy Snow |
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West Face Mod. Snow |
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‘Narrow Gully’ T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 Mod. Snow X |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Ice, Grade II |
| FA: | 13 MAR 2021, Ben & Christian |
| Page Views: | 538 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ben C on Mar 14, 2021 |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Originally planned to do Safety Dance, a variation on Lightning Couloir, however my partner and I ended up taking a different route up some more mixed climbing terrain. Utilized two ice tools for this route, could be done with two short axes.
The route starts with the same approach to Lightning Couloir, then, it moves left up some steep rocky terrain. To ensure you're on route, when you reach the entrance of Lightning couloir there will be a series of mixed steps with a large boulder on the left. Stay to the left of the boulder. Beware, the rock is extremely loose and ice is not always present. My partner and I used a 30m rope and a light alpine rack to protect this portion. Two real pitches, first is short 15m section with a nice ledge at the top to belay from. Placed a #1 camalot and a #10 nut. In deep snow you can place an anchor at the top with a snow picket or utilize some cracks to build a trad anchor (used a #2 and #3 with a #11 nut). Following this is some short 50m steep snow climbing up to another pitch (approx. 20m). Protected with a #2 and #1 cam. At the top you find a tiny bush/tree trunk that you can sit on like a saddle. Set your top anchor there either in the rock or on some natural protection.
Once you're both at the end of this pitch, you'll be able to clearly see Lightning couloir and safety dance. Down climb slightly and then traverse over to the couloir. There is an obvious couloir to your left, take that. Steep snow climb up 150-200 or so meters, last 15m is steeper with chossy rock and roots sticking out of the snow and ice. Finishes on a knifes edge arete, very cool. To finish, either move back down the couloir to the parking lot or top out on Thunder Mountain and glissade down the ski slopes to the Baldy notch, finishing with a well earned beer. Either walk back to Manker flats or pay for the ski lift. Beautiful views of the Baldy Bowl and Telegraph Peak.
NOTE*: Route is difficult with lots of fresh snow, but this can be mitigated with snow shoes.
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