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Routes in Great Burrito

Desperado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fat Free T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kemosabe and Tonto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Learn Quick or Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Non-Decumbent Destiny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out, Out, Brief Candle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Scamp T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stood Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Burner Stove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tonto and the Great White Leader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanderklooster's Stinky Wet Kitty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ben Vanderklooster & Tucker Tech, Nov. 2000
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 4, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Step up off the blocky slab and try to get some good pro in the semi mealy crack (maybe set a couple of pieces well). Pull on them, um, uhh, or climb past them and pro it up in the cracks above, finally turning the steep face over to the lower angle crack to slab.

Climb up slab to a promising corner system, place gear, and up ya go on kinda gritty rock (take care!). Save a cam/nut or two for the top of the formation for a belay anchor (medium cams worked well).

Note: this climb is rated 5.9 in the guidebook, but, we found a 5.8 A0 option available at the start, and, happily took it. Route is a bit sandy (sand baggy?).

Poor feet on crumbly holds adds some stinky.

Name of route probably modified from the original, which, can be had with minimal imagination. Meow! Poor Ben, what did he do to deserve all this? Ha ha.

Location

Located just right (east) of the main Great Burrito formation. Follow the east edge of the main face of the Great Burrito up, jogging to the right up through some boulders, to gain the start of the route. Look for the short juggy face on the block (with a right facing corner) of the 5.4 route "Up the Down Staircase": this route starts just 30 feet right.

Look for the short, steep crack which starts off a four foot high slab below the route.

Walk and down climb to the east (climber's right) of the route.

Protection

Standard rack.

No fixed gear, no anchors on top.

Photos

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