Thinning the Herd
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British X
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01657, -116.17059 |
| FA: | (TR) Todd Swain 01-1998, (FL) Woody Stark & Sam Chang 12/27/2005 |
| Page Views: | 948 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Woody Stark on Dec 26, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route lies about ten feet to the right of "Learn Quick or Die". Begin in a wide shallow grove that narrows toward a somewhat vague ledge. Continue straight up using what small cracks are available for protection. At one point, you can step left about ten feet and slightly below the second bolt on "Learn Quick..." and use the crack on that route to place pro. About three slings will be necessary to traverse back to your route and avoid rope drag. Continue up until you come to an obvious horizontal crack that allows you to traverse right and up to the off-width crack that leads to the summit. The OW crack is quite obvious from the ground. This route should improve with climbing. It's a bit grainy now. OOBC has many challenges; toprope it if you have any doubts.



1 Comment