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Routes in Great Burrito

Desperado T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fat Free T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kemosabe and Tonto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Learn Quick or Die T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Non-Decumbent Destiny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out, Out, Brief Candle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Scamp T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stood Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Burner Stove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tonto and the Great White Leader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanderklooster's Stinky Wet Kitty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Brandsford, Tony Sartin & Ann Rodgers, January 1994
Page Views: 165 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on the far right side of the main wall (about 50 feet right of Learn Quick Or Die) and follows thin vertical seams interspersed with face moves past 4 bolts and one fixed pin. The rock is a bit loose in sections, but it is one of the best routes on the cliff.

Protection

4 bolts, thin to 3 inches

Photos

David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
David S.   San Francisco, CA
 
This would be a really great climb if it saw more traffic and cleaned up the loose, grainy flakes. Nice, varied movement up the whole face, with good spots for pro interspersed between the 2nd to 4th bolts. A tad hairy to the first bolt. Dec 22, 2016
Bob Gaines  
 
Kevin Powell and I replaced the four old 1/4 inch bolts today. The pin is long gone, but not critical.

Removed the "sling" at the top which was about 40 feet of 1 inch webbing threaded through a pinch behind a loose block. One of the diciest rappel "anchors" I've ever seen. Jan 8, 2010
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
This climb's got all the variety one can look for: thin face moves, a bit of crack climbing up the seams, layback off a thin and loose flake on the left between bolts 2&3, and some power moves to the top. Didn't see any fixed pin, and bolts 2&3 look pretty weathered. Probably a 5.9+ but consider it a 10a between bolts 2 and 3. There's a new sling at the top for anyone to TR this one (couldn't get a the sling out after 15 mins of tugging at it). Pro to 2" near the top. What a blast! Oct 12, 2009
amax
San Diego
amax   San Diego
Its really a 5.9+ fun route but the loose stuff is still there at the first section of the climb. Apr 12, 2009
Duke
Rancho Mirage, CA
 
Duke   Rancho Mirage, CA
 
I would call it a soft 10a. Could be a grade harder when it cleans up. Beware of the loose flakes along the left side of the route. I did not notice the fixed pin. Jan 23, 2006