Probably Been Climbed Before
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0511, -116.20314 |
| FA: | Unknown or me and Dave, probably somebody else |
| Page Views: | 1,079 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Slagle on Jan 3, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
We did this climb simply to toprope Right-Handed Dyke, but it turned out to be somewhat interesting for the grade, probably PG though. Start up the crack and stay right and out of the dihedral that James Brown's... uses, moving out to the arete. Climb the arete up and right until you get to a splitter crack that is about 15 feet long and to the right of James Brown's... headwall. Set your anchor at the top of the crack and this anchor can be used for this climb and for Right-Handed Dyke.



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