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Routes in The Napes ,Great Gable

Napes Needle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 6 ft, 2 pitches
FA: W P Heskett-Smith. solo 11th July 1886
Page Views: 1,839 total · 17/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 2, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Napes Needle is perhaps the most recognized piece of rock in the UK, and the most photograpthed.One of the earliest climbs in Britain and quite ahead of its time for a daring solo ascent in nailed boots.There are now about seven routes and variations on this relatively small pinnacle of rock from 5.6 (HS) to an unprotected 5.8 (HVS) . Described is perhaps the most popular way via the Wasdale Crack.P1).The crack is well polished ,climb it first left then right to its top then an easy slab to the shoulder.45' 5.5 P2)The highly polished top block may seem harder than its grade .Mantelshelf onto the narrow ledge below the top block. Traverse left and make a step up on a sloping hold and pull up onto the top.Belay round and under the overhanging nose of the top block. One can protect the leaders descent by having the rope over the back of the block.15'5.6+ (HS)


On the Napes Ridges . Great Gable.. see FRCC guide to Gable and Pillar.


Normal rack ...



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