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Routes in The Bluffs

Blockbuster T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Despatched T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kama Sutra T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Link T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Scorpion T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scorpion Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,276 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Dec 20, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Start either from the anchors of Scorpion Corner or on the ledge right of Quo Vadis. Put in a piece and step over the void and work around the roof into the exposed bottomless chimney. Don't worry it's not actually bottomless, just 100 feet off the deck. The climbing is fairly straight forward but a bit old school and a bit mental.

After pulling around the roof it turns into a mellow handcrack up until it widens at the very top.

An absolute classic moderate.

Location

Up on the bluffs. The giant crack splitting the headstone with the bottomless chimney at the start. You can't miss it.

Protection

You could probably get by without a pair of #4s, but they're damn nice to have. One for the chimney at the bottom and the other makes the off-width at the top much easier when tired.

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