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Routes in The Bluffs

Blockbuster T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Despatched T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kama Sutra T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Link T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Scorpion T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scorpion Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 807 ft
GPS: -36.758, 141.845 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,736 total, 28/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball
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Description

The Bluffs are perhaps the largest, most prominant features at Arapiles. They are a series of buttresses that extend out from the back of the Mount forming the right wall of the Central Gully. Bluff Major is the largest and furthest back of these, followed by Bluff Minor which sits in front. Several smaller formations are also encompassed in this area, including John's Pinnacle, Bard Buttress, Fang Buttress, and the Plaque Area (the last three of these being listed separately).

Climbing ranges from long moderates to short, difficult testpieces. Must do lines include Blockbuster (5), Missing Link (9), Scorpion (10a) and Scorpion Corner (11b), Quo Vadis (10b), Thunder Crack (10c), Kama Sutra (11+), Despatched (12a), Station to Station (12b), and Final Departure (12d). Grades are YDS.

Getting There

Approaches vary depending on what part of the formations you are going towards, but the vast majority are approached via the Ali's scrambling route... this passage is on the north side of the Bluffs facing the campground. One can also pass through the bluffs via Ali Baba's Cave, a tunnel through the formation. On the other side is a long ledge system called Flinder's Lane. Many high quality routes begin from here, which is just on top of the Tiger Wall. Descent from the top of the Bluffs is via rappel. Ali's can be reversed to reach terra firma.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Missing Link
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scorpion
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunder Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Corner
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Despatched
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Missing Link 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Scorpion 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Thunder Crack 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Scorpion Corner 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Despatched 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Bluffs »

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