Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Swamp Slabs

Conkomatic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Debut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dislocation Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dislocation Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Dagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Horns T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pinhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tread Gently T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Larry Treiber, Chuck Parker, John Byrd
Page Views: 873 total, 9/month
Shared By: Karl K on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

P1- ?did not climb
P2 - from first belay on Green Horns/Green Dagger traverse left 20' to vertical crack; climb until this peters out and move right to rounded ledge (5.9 & ~scary); straight up face past a bolt (5.9PG) or work left after bolt to a crack (5.10-?; PG)
P3 - ?

Location

P1 is up face to crack to face about 30' right of the pine tree.
Walkoff to climbers left.

Protection

Mostly thin pro required

Photos

- No Photos -
Bobby Treadwell
Prescott, AZ
 
Bobby Treadwell   Prescott, AZ
 
this route was awesome! that last bolt was hilarious! still only one bolt at the top where the topo says two. Sep 18, 2012
Kayle
 
Kayle  
 
The traverse move was definitely exciting. After falling, it felt like VO+ at groom creek, the scare factor being significantly reduced. Absolutely recomended for on an early season morning, shady and crisp! Sep 20, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
Chris M   Seattle, WA
A good moderate link-up is Pinhead -> Conkomatic Nov 22, 2009
Joel Longo
Mooresville, NC
 
Joel Longo   Mooresville, NC
 
I believe the topo shows that slab having two bolts where the other bolt is supposed to be higher than the one already there. When I was climbing however I didn't see any obvious remains of an old bolt. Nov 14, 2009
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
 
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
 
I thought the traverse move was solid GM 5.9 (meaning I would have rated it 10b if it were anywhere else). That said, both I (at 6'2") and my wife (at 5'2") thought it was 5.9 - so at least it is not height dependent. Just very thin and scary.
I also second the idea that the face above this rounded ledge is quite runnout and that the lone bolt is less than stellar. Nov 13, 2009
I agree with Joel, the move out to the ledge where it rounds over feels like 10+/11a. It was harder than any move on Thin Slice or Slide Action Traction, both of which get 10+. I wouldn't reccommend that last pitch past the bolt until we get it replaced; one bolt for the whole pitch of what appears to be insecure climbing. Nov 13, 2009
Joel Longo
Mooresville, NC
 
Joel Longo   Mooresville, NC
 
The first pitch I feel was maybe 5.8 or 5.9 with sparse placements. The move right on the second pitch to the rounded ledge I feel was 10+/11- (compared to the slabs on the right section). I may have traversed too high though. The slab above the ledge is some fun spicy friction slab. I believe the third pitch is the final pitch of Greenhorns.

When I climbed this I ended pitch one to the right of the rounded ledge, then climbed the slab and the finish of Greenhorns. I would suggest however linking all the way to the top of the slab above the rounded ledge for a fun long first pitch. Nov 11, 2009