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Routes in Swamp Slabs

Conkomatic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Debut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dislocation Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dislocation Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Dagger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Horns T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pinhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tread Gently T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,691 total · 32/month
Shared By: Matt P on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

This climb starts right where the swamp slab trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious crack/chimney that extends about 100ft up the wall. That's your first pitch. The route then follows a short traverse left to the next belay. After that its straight up with the exception of a short hand traverse on pitch 4. If you avoid the traverse and head up a seam on the left, it's dislocation direct (5.6). The last pitch is class 4 and then walk/scramble off to the left. Take care at the top!All pitches except the first are short. You could run them together but there would be some rope drag. Hard work getting to the climb but worth the effort.

Protection

Excellent trad climb, no problems finding bomber placements in good rock. Belay ledges are well protected also but look out for some doubtful sounding flakes

Photos

Marcy M
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.5
Marcy M   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.5
7 pitches? Call me crazy but 7 pitches seems a bit excessive.

Regardless, what a fun route! Mostly easy climbing with great gear on all pitches and very roomy belay ledges. The exposure on the hand traverse was exhilarating! I mistakenly passed the hand crack on pitch 5 and went up another hand crack with great jams that was to the left of the route. Sep 17, 2007
Mike
Phoenix
Mike   Phoenix
Yeah Marcy 7 pitches does sound way excessive. It has been a long time, but I think I did this route in 4 pitches, certainly no more than 5. Nov 18, 2007
Micah C  
My topo shows 5 pitches. Nov 11, 2009
Christopher Czaplicki
Phoenix, AZ
  5.4
Christopher Czaplicki   Phoenix, AZ
  5.4
A bit more detailed description of the pitches since the route does wander with some route finding challenges. Many of the pitches can be combined:
Pitch 1 is by far the longest and climbs a prominent crack about 120' below the level of Pine Tree Ledge, through a bush and up to a tree belay. You then move the belay about 50' to the climbers left. Some consider this traverse to the start of the next pitch it's own pitch, but a belay isn't really necessary as the ledge is relatively wide.
Pitch 2 starts at a brushy ledge after the belay is moved and climbs broken cracks up diagonally right to below a small roof, then traverses a small ledge back left and up a crack to a roomy belay ledge.
Pitch 3 climbs the obvious crack above the belay ledge to the left about 10'. At the top of the crack, fingertrip traverse across the roof over the belay ledge to the right, then easy cracks to the next belay ledge. Skipping the traverse and heading straight up is a pitch of Dislocation Direct.
Pitch 4 climbs the blocks and crack to the left and back into main crack system. Guide books show the next belay at a cozy corner in the ledge system, but this can easily be combined with with pitch 5 without too much drag.
Pitch 5 (easily combined with pitch 4) ascends the crack system directly up. A small roof is encountered just below a good belay ledge, which can be easily climbed around to the right.
Pitch 6 continues up the cracks as the grade eases to class 3-4, ending at the brushy top with belays off small trees or large boulders.
The walk off is a little tough to follow, but you are best off hugging the cliff face and not scrambling up much higher above the final belay. Sep 11, 2018

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