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Dislocation Buttress
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2.9 from 14
votes
Routes in Swamp Slabs
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Conkomatic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Debut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dislocation Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dislocation Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Green Dagger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Green Horns T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pinhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tread Gently T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 7 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,347 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Matt P on Oct 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
This climb starts right where the swamp slab trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious crack/chimney that extends about 100ft up the wall. That's your first pitch. The route then follows a short traverse left to the next belay. After that its straight up with the exception of a short hand traverse on pitch 4. If you avoid the traverse and head up a seam on the left, it's dislocation direct (5.6). The last pitch is class 4 and then walk/scramble off to the left. Take care at the top!All pitches except the first are short. You could run them together but there would be some rope drag. Hard work getting to the climb but worth the effort.
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Regardless, what a fun route! Mostly easy climbing with great gear on all pitches and very roomy belay ledges. The exposure on the hand traverse was exhilarating! I mistakenly passed the hand crack on pitch 5 and went up another hand crack with great jams that was to the left of the route. Sep 17, 2007
Phoenix