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Routes in Swamp Slabs

Conkomatic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Debut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dislocation Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dislocation Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Dagger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Horns T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pinhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tread Gently T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 7 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,191 total, 31/month
Shared By: Matt P on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

This climb starts right where the swamp slab trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious crack/chimney that extends about 100ft up the wall. That's your first pitch. The route then follows a short traverse left to the next belay. After that its straight up with the exception of a short hand traverse on pitch 4. If you avoid the traverse and head up a seam on the left, it's dislocation direct (5.6). The last pitch is class 4 and then walk/scramble off to the left. Take care at the top!All pitches except the first are short. You could run them together but there would be some rope drag. Hard work getting to the climb but worth the effort.

Protection

Excellent trad climb, no problems finding bomber placements in good rock. Belay ledges are well protected also but look out for some doubtful sounding flakes

Photos

Micah C  
My topo shows 5 pitches. Nov 11, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
Mike   Phoenix
Yeah Marcy 7 pitches does sound way excessive. It has been a long time, but I think I did this route in 4 pitches, certainly no more than 5. Nov 18, 2007
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.5
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.5
7 pitches? Call me crazy but 7 pitches seems a bit excessive.

Regardless, what a fun route! Mostly easy climbing with great gear on all pitches and very roomy belay ledges. The exposure on the hand traverse was exhilarating! I mistakenly passed the hand crack on pitch 5 and went up another hand crack with great jams that was to the left of the route. Sep 17, 2007