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Dislocation Buttress
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 3.1 from 16
votes
Routes in Swamp Slabs
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Conkomatic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Debut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dislocation Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dislocation Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Green Dagger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Green Horns T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pinhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tread Gently T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,691 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Matt P on Oct 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
This climb starts right where the swamp slab trail hits the wall. Look for the obvious crack/chimney that extends about 100ft up the wall. That's your first pitch. The route then follows a short traverse left to the next belay. After that its straight up with the exception of a short hand traverse on pitch 4. If you avoid the traverse and head up a seam on the left, it's dislocation direct (5.6). The last pitch is class 4 and then walk/scramble off to the left. Take care at the top!All pitches except the first are short. You could run them together but there would be some rope drag. Hard work getting to the climb but worth the effort.
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Regardless, what a fun route! Mostly easy climbing with great gear on all pitches and very roomy belay ledges. The exposure on the hand traverse was exhilarating! I mistakenly passed the hand crack on pitch 5 and went up another hand crack with great jams that was to the left of the route. Sep 17, 2007
Phoenix
Phoenix, AZ
Pitch 1 is by far the longest and climbs a prominent crack about 120' below the level of Pine Tree Ledge, through a bush and up to a tree belay. You then move the belay about 50' to the climbers left. Some consider this traverse to the start of the next pitch it's own pitch, but a belay isn't really necessary as the ledge is relatively wide.
Pitch 2 starts at a brushy ledge after the belay is moved and climbs broken cracks up diagonally right to below a small roof, then traverses a small ledge back left and up a crack to a roomy belay ledge.
Pitch 3 climbs the obvious crack above the belay ledge to the left about 10'. At the top of the crack, fingertrip traverse across the roof over the belay ledge to the right, then easy cracks to the next belay ledge. Skipping the traverse and heading straight up is a pitch of Dislocation Direct.
Pitch 4 climbs the blocks and crack to the left and back into main crack system. Guide books show the next belay at a cozy corner in the ledge system, but this can easily be combined with with pitch 5 without too much drag.
Pitch 5 (easily combined with pitch 4) ascends the crack system directly up. A small roof is encountered just below a good belay ledge, which can be easily climbed around to the right.
Pitch 6 continues up the cracks as the grade eases to class 3-4, ending at the brushy top with belays off small trees or large boulders.
The walk off is a little tough to follow, but you are best off hugging the cliff face and not scrambling up much higher above the final belay. Sep 11, 2018