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Routes in Swamp Slabs

Conkomatic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Debut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dislocation Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dislocation Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Dagger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Green Horns T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pinhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tread Gently T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rusty Baille, David Lovejoy, Jack Hauck 1970
Page Views: 1,958 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tim Heid on Sep 19, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th Details

Description

Fantastic climbing and a great intro climb to Granite Mountain. Debut begins about 10 feet to the left of a large pine on the Pine Tree Ledge.

Pitch 1: Follow the shallow cracks up to a small roof. Pull the roof to the right on good jugs. Then follow a double crack system up to a gully to the right of a few bushes. 5.4 150'

Pitch 2: The money pitch and a classic for the grade. Step across the gully to the right and make a few mantel moves up to a big ledge. Continue up the hand to finger crack on the right. Then face climb towards a huge roof; pull the roof on the right and continue up a gorgeous dihedral that turns into clean liebacking to a big ledge. 5.5 150'

Descent: Walk left from the ledge and follow a faint trail back to the Pine Tree Ledge.

Location

Starts on the left side of the Pine Tree Ledge. Look for the 2 discontinuous cracks that lead to a small roof just to the right of a black water streak.

Protection

Standard Rack to 3".

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Instead of stopping pitch 1 in the gully, I recommend that you continue up another 15' past the mantel moves to a great ledge. The ledge is very comfortable, the belay anchor is easy and you have a better view for both the follower coming up the first pitch and the leader moving up the second pitch. Sep 19, 2011
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
It seemed best to me to climb this in three pitches. I made the first belay after the overhangs just above some offwidths, and the second at the huge ledge just after the blocky climbing. The first and third pitch were awesome. I am learning trad, I think this was my 6th trad lead and it was all straight forward climbing. The last pitch is the most intimidating because its almost vertical but the gear is there and very nice holds the whole way. Make sure you do this climb! Jan 3, 2012
Miguel D
SLC
  5.5
Miguel D   SLC
  5.5
We did in two picthes, the same as Tim's recommendation, to the big ledge. However, there is a big fallen tree in the gully, right below the ledge that can get in the way. What we ended up doing is plugging the last piece of pro before the ledge well before the fallen tree. And ran out the last section of the pitch to the ledge. Once on the big ledge, we swung the rope over the fallen tree to have a clean rope feed and eliminate the drag on the tree branches.

Second pitch is simple, straight forward, but quite enjoyable. This second pitch was also my first trad lead some time ago the first time i did it. And i'd say it is appropriate for that. Easy to protect, easy grade, clear line of sight from the belay, and clean falls mostly Jul 17, 2014

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