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Routes in The Junkyard

Destiny S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serial Drilla' S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Song Of Stone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Adam Harker, 1/2002
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2009
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

A good but somewhat strange route that has a little bit of everything. Start with the first crux on the left (powerful) or right (technical) and then ride up the left-leaning arete on 5.9 to 5.10a moves to a more vertical section crossing the arete crux, (tough balance) and then up to the anchor.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the Junkyard wall. It can be started on the left side of the arete on large flakes (strenuous) or on the right side (technical traverse in) and up the arete

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt-and-ring anchor. Lower off far left to the ground and trail to the left of the base and walk back.

Photos

mc kaiser
Boulder, CO
 
mc kaiser   Boulder, CO
 
Sort of 'trad-y' Oct 8, 2016
Danny Paradorn
Thailand & SF Bay Area
  5.10c
Danny Paradorn   Thailand & SF Bay Area
  5.10c
This is one of my top 10 climbs at Crazy Horse. Fun and varied climbing. Nothing too strenuous. Just cool moves. Start low and downclimb onto the tufa and traverse out right (above the cave opening) to get the most bang for your buck ;) Jun 21, 2016