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Routes in The Junkyard

Destiny S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serial Drilla' S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Song Of Stone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

A great crag with shade in the afternoon all year, as it faces somewhat East. Do not let the name fool you, as the crag is quite solid- the name comes from a stack of huge boulders at the base, and not from the quality of the routes. Each route here is 2 stars or better, and from left to right are named/graded:
1) Destiny (10c)
2) Sage (10a)
3) Song Of Stone (10d)
4) Serial Drilla (10b)

Of these, #3 is the best, but #1 the most unique.
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Getting There

If you are already at a crag, continue right past the furnace to a low point in t he trail near the road and then head up and left (though further in the downhill direction overall) to reach the base of a huge cliff. There is a Bulky wall on the left with no real climbing on it.
Alternately, there is a parking spot on the dirt road on the way in with a sign indicating the approach as for the Junkyard and if this is your only destintation, one can approach from there. The time to the cliff should be 7 minutes or 4 minutes, respectively.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Junkyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Song Of Stone
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Song Of Stone 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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