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Routes in The Junkyard

Destiny S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serial Drilla' S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Song Of Stone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Francis Hayden and Thomas Perkins, 10/2002
Page Views: 782 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2009
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

Probably the best route on the wall. While the book refers to this as a sustained crack, most of the climbing is face climbing. Still, crux jams may make this a lot easier if you know how.

Location [Edit]

This is the 3rd bolt line on the wall from the left side.

Protection [Edit]

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is well protected by the second to last bolt.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Has anyone ever led this on gear? Although I'm grateful for this route being bolted, I wish I had brought my rack for this route... but on the other hand hauling a trad rack overseas for just this route would have been futile. Jan 7, 2011
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Definitely easier for me since I like crack. Still, the crack up high on the route is harder to jam cause it gets wider and has thin lips; pull on the edge and you're fine. Feb 23, 2012
Tao Techakanon
Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10d
Tao Techakanon   Bangkok, Thailand
  5.10d
If you know how to jam and have basic crack technique, this thing is quite a breeze. Would love to bring my rack next time and try leading this on gear. Jul 11, 2016

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