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Routes in Strawberry Hill Buttress

Berry Nice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Country Quencher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Whine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Margaritaville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Thunder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Of Lime T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strawberry Hill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Under Raps T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Van Betten, Steven Van Betten, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,095 total, 11/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 2, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

An elegant crack system shoots up the middle of the wall, about twenty yards to the right of Fine Whine. It is probably best to climb a short pitch up the initial chimney in order to have enough rope to reach the next belay. The second pitch follows the thin crack, makes crux moves past a small bulge, and finally passes a larger but easier overhang above. For the third pitch it is again best to halt on the top of a small pillar in the right-facing corner system. The fourth pitch is also a long (60 meter+) to ledges near the dead rappel tree. If in doubt, consider setting up a hanging belay in the corner.

The name came about when the FA party encountered a lot of precarious loose rock immediately above the crux overhang.

Location

Scramble up the approach slabs to the brushy ledge at the base of the western wall. The route starts just to the right of the point where the approach meets the main wall.

Protection

Std rack, emphasis on thinnish cams

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
This is a very nice route that deserves more traffic. It still has some friable rock in spots, but overall the rock quality is very good, and the protection is excellent. We did the pitches a bit differently than described above, mostly to manage rope drag and to keep each other in view through the cruxes; a determined party could undoubtedly do the entire route in three long pitches.

P. 1: Up the chimney (less awkward if you can stay outside it) to the first good stance, at about 50’. It looks like there’ s another decent stance just above, but it’s a lot less comfortable. Maybe 5.7.

P. 2: Follow the crack system, stepping left where it forks, and pull the small roof (one well-protected 5.9 move). We belayed at a stance just above the roof. 5.9, 60’.

P. 3: Pass another small roof (awkward 5.7) and continue up easy slabs to a big ledge. About 100’.

P. 4: Easy climbing leads to a lovely chocolate-varnished right-facing corner with very enjoyable, surprisingly intricate climbing. We belayed (semi-hanging stance) where the angle diminishes. 5.8-5.9, 120’.

P. 5: Finish the corner; easy slabs lead to the rappel anchor, which is on the right and a bit lower than you’d expect. 5.7, 100’.

Follow the standard Strawberry Hill rap route to the ground, about 100’ west of the base of the climb. Oct 24, 2017