Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Paul Van Betten, Steven Van Betten, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||1,159 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Oct 2, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionAn elegant crack system shoots up the middle of the wall, about twenty yards to the right of Fine Whine. It is probably best to climb a short pitch up the initial chimney in order to have enough rope to reach the next belay. The second pitch follows the thin crack, makes crux moves past a small bulge, and finally passes a larger but easier overhang above. For the third pitch it is again best to halt on the top of a small pillar in the right-facing corner system. The fourth pitch is also a long (60 meter+) to ledges near the dead rappel tree. If in doubt, consider setting up a hanging belay in the corner.
The name came about when the FA party encountered a lot of precarious loose rock immediately above the crux overhang.