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Routes in Strawberry Hill Buttress

Berry Nice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Country Quencher T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Whine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Margaritaville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Thunder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Of Lime T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strawberry Hill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Under Raps T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Van Betten, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,213 total · 11/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 2, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Climb the obvious corner and crack system above, eventually reaching the large ledge midway up the western wall. Continue across the ledge and up a crack to a belay position by a short chimney. Climb up the crack and traverse left at a large prominent varnish patch, then straight up to the summit.

Walk west to the rappel tree.

Location

Scramble up the approach slabs to the brushy ledge at the base of the western wall. The route starts in the corner system on the left.

Protection

We had a big cam (#6 Friend) and used it; two ropes for rappel
Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.9
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.9
A PVB and Larry D collaboration? Count me in!
This climb is great. As I remember it:
P1. 150'. Obvious lieback crack. It is one of the most sustained 5.9 pitches in the park, and excellent. I stopped on a small corner ledge with small gear. (One could continue higher into the base of the chimney.)
P2. 100'. Up and left, pulling into an immaculate varnished chimney. Jam and chimney up, belaying at the back of the monster ledge.
P3. 200'. Place gear, then run it out on easy rock quite a ways. Generally solid. There is an obvious low angle crack (5.6?) right, but we traversed left, into that glorious, varnished corner. Good gear, jams, and movement. Small stuff is helpful. At 175', I traversed straight right, and belayed on a ledge, off a slung chicken head and backup gear at my feet.
P4. 70'. Up the path of least resistance, generally traversing right, placing gear high for the follower, headed toward the dead tree.

I believe the line Larry drew took the easy crack, but the p3 corner is excellent. We also went right where they traversed left across the varnish. Doubles to 1, singles to 4. Double 60m or better for the first rap lets you skip the intermediate rap with stretch. Walk away from the wall to pull the ropes. Feb 24, 2018

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