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Routes in Red Diamond Wall

Al Dente T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Graceland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hat Trick T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hi Pro Glow (original line) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
High Pro Glow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ice is Nice S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lipstick T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruby T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Joe Terravechia, Peter Rice '87
Page Views: 182 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Sep 18, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb thin cracks (crux) to just below the prow where the crack forks. Take the right side (fingers) to the widening crack above. The last 30' is flaring squeeze chimney/offwidth. This is where a big (5 friend) piece might be nice, otherwise it's a long way without reliable gear. Belay from large boulders on top.
A very good route with real climbing in the first half.

Location

Far right side of Red Diamond, on top of a ledge. Expect some scrambling to gain the belay area. To get there from the middle section of the wall, walk slightly downhill around the small buttress, then up scree and ramps, to a final bouldery section.
Look for thin cracks going straight up to a prow, and a 3' roof above and right.
To descend: downclimb exposed 4th class terrain to the right.

Protection

0tcu-4BD, nuts (micros may help), a #5 friend would take the spice out of the moderate, flaring squeeze at the top.

Photos

Jack Hereford
Tucson, AZ
 
Jack Hereford   Tucson, AZ
 
Bottom packs a punch but the top gets the stars Oct 8, 2017
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
fun climbing with solid pro. sustained and quite technical in the first half. Oct 23, 2010