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Routes in Red Diamond Wall

Al Dente T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Graceland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hat Trick T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hi Pro Glow (original line) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
High Pro Glow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ice is Nice S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lipstick T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruby T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joe Terravechia, Peter Rice '87
Page Views: 196 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Sep 18, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Another typical Lemmon trad climb; gear protected face climbing with bottoming cracks, plates, edges, and knobs.
Start at the boulder in the hallway, climbing flakes and cracks between the two roofs, to a bulge just above the righthand roof. Above this move left (to join Lipstick) on good edges, incuts, and sidepulls to gain a thin crack that shoots to the top with increasingly large holds. A big cam may be nice for the last moves, but isn't neccessary.

At some point this route received an R, most likely due to sketchy rock that has since been removed. Using small cams and nuts it is possible to completely sew this line up and the rock quality is as good as most other routes around.

Location

Right of Lipstick, this route follows discontinuous crack up between the two roofs. Shares anchors with Lipstick.

Protection

Lots o' thin. Cams from .33-2" (X2 0-3tcu) nuts + micros (HB/DMM offsets work very well), runners. Chain anchor.

Photos

JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
Description is wrong. Look at the book. High pro glow is a 9+ that stays right and heads up the big crack at the top of the cliff. I have not had the pleasure of doing it this way b/c we only had the app on the phone with the above description which told me head left onto lipstick. Don't get me wrong- this way is great fun and a great climb on its own- but there is absolutely no reason to lug a 5 for this finish- the description above says a big cam helps at the end -- wrong. A #1, .75, or a large nut protect the final moves and that piece is at your feet clipping the chains. The 5 won't fit up there and would be one foot below the chains anyway. May 21, 2017