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Routes in Red Diamond Wall

Al Dente T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Graceland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hat Trick T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hi Pro Glow (original line) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
High Pro Glow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lipstick T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruby T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Description

A beautiful, steep wall in a secluded setting makes this a treat for the eye, body, and mind. The routes are long single pitches, mostly traditional with an adventurous feel. Rock quality is generally quite good, with interesting plates and incuts. Facing east means morning sun and great afternoon shade. Fires and monsoons have made the approach less than ideal; eliminating any trail that may have existed past the ridge. Be prepared to do some scree-skiing.

Getting There

New approach beta to be added soon.

Park at San Pedro Vista and hike left up the ridge for about 10min until you reach a flat(ish) grassy area. You should be able to see the obvious triangular wall from a few clear spots on the ridge as you come up. Once at the grassy spot you have two options.
1: Continue up and over the ridge, coming down slightly on the other side before traversing right and then down (steep scree) to the backside of the crag. Then descend the drainage (bushwack) on the right eventually gaining the base of the wall.
2: From grassy overlook, drop down making a fairly direct line to the base of the wall. The ground is steep, but not quite as loose as the other ridge descent.
Either way pretty much sucks and will probably take close to 30min the first time. Just remember that this place IS worth it.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Diamond Wall

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jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
What an epic crag. Beautiful rock. One of the best crags on the lemmon. Stellar Sep 4, 2014
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
This wall is really something. There are five climbs that are solid three stars, one borders on four. The surroundings are beautiful, the climbs are long and very fun, and the approach is quick and easy if you hit the right trail. If you area climbing trad at the grade make sure to visit this area, it is definitely worth it.

"Canada" Eric Ruljancich worked out a much better approach that cuts the approach time to 15 minutes and is very reasonable. We placed cairns on it two days ago. Park as for sky valley and walk down the road approx 100-150' to a large cairn. From here follow the cairns up the hill. When you reach the top continue directly over the crest and down the other side following cairns. A trail contours nicely to the back side of the wall. An easy scramble over a slab takes you to the far right side of the wall and a good staging area. May 5, 2011
That's funny shit you guys. Oct 26, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
you guys are killing me. :) Oct 26, 2010
Jimbo  
I've got a cell phone. Call anytime you want some advice, John. Oct 26, 2010
jbak  
So yesterday at the shed I'm prying flakes and breathing petrified scorpion sh**. Crux hold has little credit-card-thin flakes at the back. They may last a day, they may last 1000 years. My partner and I think it would be better if they were gone. I cry to the heavens "what would Jimbo do ???!!!".

When the laughter dies, I smash 'em. Oct 25, 2010
Jimbo  
Erasure would be a good idea. The hangers would be better used at the tool shed. Also maybe you can haul out the two ropes, hand chisel and crow bar that still litter the base.
Other four routes on this crag were good fun. Worth the walk once your done with the Red Diamond stuff. Oct 24, 2010
jbak  
Easy Jim, I don't think I've chipped a hold since your last tirade. Maybe that's a coincidence... or maybe I've taken your words to heart. (Maybe I haven't climbed much.)

Anyway your last speech was in May 2010, that route is from 200>>9<<.

The route is meatloaf in my opinion... a waste of metal. I will likely erase it next time I'm out there. Oct 24, 2010
Jimbo  
CHIP BAKER BACK IN THE KITCHEN WITH ANOTHER CHISEL FEST FLAMBIE.

Went out to a cliff at the end of the ridge past Red Diamond today. Last route we got on had many chiseled holds that had been spray painted in a lame attempt to cover up the chisel marks.

This humble MP poster cannot express the bewildered bafflement I felt upon the discovery of this calculated chipifarian crusade, this banal Boschton tea party.

First of all, totally the wrong color paint. Hello, can you say color swatch!

Secondly, the line three feet to the left is obviously the better route up the wall. Features, my friends, I'm talking features.

Thirdly, this style of chips and grits, chisel and spice and everything's nice, cuisine is so 20th century.

This baker needs a new cook book! Oct 23, 2010

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