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Routes in Red Diamond Wall

Al Dente T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Facets of the Mined S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Graceland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hat Trick T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hi Pro Glow (original line) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
High Pro Glow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ice is Nice S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lipstick T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mirror Image T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ringtail Cat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruby T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sidewinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Joe Terravechia, Peter Rice 1987
Page Views: 133 total · 9/month
Shared By: JMo on May 21, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

start at the boulder in the hallway, and enjoy the straightforward, bomber cam placements in the first 30 feet, because it gets trickier. when your right foot is on the left side of the big roof (the roof onto which sidewinder traverses from the right), you will be able to peek over and see hardman Joe T (or somebody's) rusty old pin. You could go right here or climb up a bit and then head over when your feet are just above the pin. sling stuff extra long in this area. after numerous placements that seem either tiny or dubious or both, you will arrive at the big crack. you will want a #5 camalot. You can leave the offwidth at the horizontal, where you will encounter the last bolt of sidewinder and then the sidewinder chains. if continuing up the offwidth, you will perhaps want a #6, and I didn't see any chains up there, but I did see chossy looking rock and opportunities for groveling and/or heroics

Location

right of lipstick, left of sidewinder. start on the scramble up the boulder you use to reach sidewinder, and go upwards, trending side to side as needed. if your first piece is a bomber #2 and your second piece is a glorious orange metolious, you are in the right spot.

Protection

singles to #2, doubles from micro to .75, lots of long runners, lots of tiny nuts

Photos

JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
if you are jumping on to lipstick it is not the original line, and you are missing out on some fun. red diamond has scores of ways to combine routes. Hi Pro into Lipstick, Glowing Lipstick? is great don't get me wrong, but so is the original line. i'm also curious about sidewinder into mirror image, avoiding the heinously tricky and scant pro of the lower section of mirror image... kind of nice you can use hi pro to TR lipstick or mirror if you don't feel like stepping up. though hi pro is not exactly a gimme despite the pedestrian grade. May 21, 2017
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Continuing up the offwidth to the top above the horizontal felt no harder than the lower part of the offwidth. Both felt around 5.7/5.8 as there are lots of feet. A six would be ideal for the very top, but I was able to get a good four really deep in the crack, kind of annoying, but probably less so than lugging the six. There is indeed chossy rock at the very top. After topping out it is easy to walk over and belay from the Sidewinder chains and then rap from them.

I enjoyed this route and found it to be a bit heady for the grade but maybe it doesn't warrant an "R" anymore, I don't know. I didn't have a ton of confidence in some of the placements. Definitely worth doing all the way to the top on the original line, especially if you've already done Lipstick. Thanks for adding the correct line. Nov 20, 2017

More About Hi Pro Glow (original line)

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