Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jay Foley, Donna Longo
Page Views: 319 total · 3/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 24, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Another quality line on Water Wall, Open Books starts up 3 open book features, then turns a roof at the top.

Start in the first open book, step right on a ledge, head up the 2nd open book (still easy), step right and enter the 3rd open book. A technical crux guards the exit stepping left out of this last corner, which is followed by easy climbing to the headwall. Clip a piton with a big reach (can be backed up with gear), and turn the tricky steep section- the 2nd crux of the route- to the big ledge and the anchor.

Location

Middle to right side of Water Wall. Just left of Gothic Pillar, look for 3 open book/wide groove features, each one to the right of the one below it.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 2". A fixed piton protects the upper crux.
3-bolt anchor, with quicklinks equipped for rappelling, is found on the ledge at the top (and is likely new since it isn't mentioned in the books).

Photos

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