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Routes in Water Wall and Lower Areas

Aussie Avalanche T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Streak TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black and Tan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burt Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Comales Tamale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Gully T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gothic Pillar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunky Monkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lean Green Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Open Books T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pure Vida T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skewed Right Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Take the Plunge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tranquilo T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yellow Wall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jay Foley, Donna Longo and friends?
Page Views: 78 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Black & Tan is a fun 5.10 climb on the Leaning Boulder/Water Wall.
Climb an easy start to a single hard move before clipping the first bolt (can place a cam first). Step right and pull on positive holds on a bulge/prow. Above, you'll turn a small roof and reach a technical face to one last bulge [had a fixed pin, now missing] before the chains.

The clean tan face to the left can be toproped at a slightly harder grade.

Location

Black & Tan is the 3rd bolted line from the left end of Leaning Boulder Wall.

Protection

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Bring a light rack of nuts and cams.

Photos

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Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
The pin is gone -- maybe for the best? My friend unfortunately weighted it and took an ugly fall when it popped while leading this pitch. I found a good finger-size cam placement to the right but its location makes it more logical to skip the last move directly through the roof. I had pulled my cam when I climbed the last bit and only had the piton clipped; had I fallen it would have been ugly for me instead. Jul 14, 2013
Jfoley  
It's possible to get two pieces of pro before the first bolt (small cam then a medium stopper) and two before the second I usually place a number one (red) BD Camalot in the small right facing dihedral after the first bolt. Also the fixed pin is five inches long and still in good shape. Jun 3, 2010

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