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Areas in Comales Canyon

Fire Wall and Upper Tier 1 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Water Wall and Lower Areas 15 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 36.16, -105.585 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,265 total · 217/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

Beautiful high mountain setting in pristine canyon with bullet-hard rock. Moderate trad on the banks of a mountain stream (Water Wall), and a few fun bolted sport routes on the steep black and orange cliff band above (Fire Wall).

Getting There

Hwy 518 about 18 miles east of Taos. Look for FS Rd 22 just past Comales Campground at a turnout on the right. If you get to Sipapu, you missed it...

Great swimming a mile East on NM 518 at a pull out on the north of the road below a series of small waterfalls.

Food, gas, lodging and a nice disc golf course in Sipapu Ski Area a few miles further east on NM518. One of the most family friendly climbing areas in Taos county.

Guide book for the area is Jay Foley's "Taos Rock"

Local guide service www.climbtaos.com

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Comales Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Descent
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nicole's Corner
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
E-Z Rider
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kindling
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Takes a Village to Raise a Route
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shadow Caster
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Egg
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fire Walker
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Burnt
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reignite
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Father's Day
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toast
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hammer Time
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
In Descent Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Nicole's Corner Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
E-Z Rider Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Kindling Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Prescribed Burn Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
It Takes a Village to Raise… Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Shadow Caster Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Egg Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fire Walker Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Burnt Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Reignite Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Father's Day Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Toast Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Family Man Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hammer Time Fire Wall and Upper Tier 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Photos

after cleaning a route here when the rock was wet, WAIT 24HRS FOR THE ROCK TO DRY AFTER A SOAKING RAIN! I cleaned off 10 pieces of rock on holds that had been tested recently. A flexy flake was moving about 80% more! steeper routes that stay drier are obviously better but be aware. Oct 24, 2015
djkyote  
A link to a recent rockfall accident, maybe an issue from recent rains:

mountainproject.com/v/rockf…

Also, I may have left a gray rainjacket there that day. If it is found, please PM me. Aug 9, 2013
Dennis Jackson's guidebook, Climbing in New Mexico, also covers Comales Canyon and has a nice sketch of the Water Wall.
The rock at Comales is the Ortega Quartzite, or an equivalent unit.
The new sport rounts on/left of the Fire Wall are decent routes that should improve with some more traffic. Jul 14, 2010
Jfoley  
Several new sport routes on and left of fire wall. May 25, 2010

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