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Routes in Fire Wall and Upper Tier

Aaron's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anvil, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Sheep, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Burnt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dennis Hopper Memorial Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
E-Z Rider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Family Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Father's Day S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fire Walker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fiyo S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fun for the Whole Family S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hammer Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
In Descent S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Takes a Village to Raise a Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kindling S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nicole's Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prescribed Burn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reignite S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shadow Caster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stella's Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Still Smokin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Summer Solstice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Toast S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Nicole Heckmann, Dan Greenwald
Page Views: 1,092 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ian Donnelly on Aug 16, 2012
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start 10 feet right of dead tree. Crux move is right off the ground and can be protected with small gear or avoided by starting by dead tree and traversing to first bolt, which keeps the route at 5.9.

Location

On The Block, middle route

Protection

7 bolts

Photos

JaniMichaels
  5.9
JaniMichaels  
  5.9
This route was one of the coolest routes I have climbed in a while and very well protected. Me and my partner definitely felt that the top move was the crux. The exposure was fun at the top. Sep 3, 2015
Update: I removed the 3rd bolt and added one bolt below and one above its hole. This makes the route well protected. As far as the crux at the last bolt, the key is to move right around the arete by the last bolt. If you follow the seam just below the last bolt and reach around the arete, then you will find a huge jug all while below or even with the last bolt. For what its worth, the FA led it as her first 5.9 lead. Sep 25, 2012
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.10-
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.10-
Nice route but I have a couple of notes:
Thought the end was the crux and not the beginning.
In the middle section I found the position of the bolts a bit odd, meaning that hard moves came right before the bolts. Once clipped, an easier section followed. Therefore I think 5.9 leaders, that think about skipping the start, would probably not feel comfortable on this route. Sep 4, 2012