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Routes in Bingo Baby

40 oz to Freedom S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
48 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
An Affair to Remember S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beckoning Call, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bingo Baby S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Bringer of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chockdust Torture S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cosmic Imperative S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gordon's Linkup S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gun in the Mouth Blues S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
If I Only Had a Brain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ivy Mike S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kodak Courage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Medulla Oblongata S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Milkmaid, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Remorse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Princess Di S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Protozoa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slopbuckets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tuba, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 137 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A technical start with good, but tricky holds to the first bolt, then a pumpy bit to get established into the open book above. Once established, cruiser climbing to the chains.

Location

The left-center section of the Bingo Baby is dominated by a large roof fifteen to twenty feet off the ground.

At the left side of the roof is a trough/seam (essentially an open book) with bolts on the left wall. This line climbs the technical bit up to the trough and then continues up the trough to chains on the left side.

Protection

4 bolts to chain anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

Ryan Arnold
  5.11c PG13
Ryan Arnold  
  5.11c PG13
Definitely stick clip this thing. It's sketchier at the bolt than it looks from below. Great route otherwise! Jun 22, 2016
Phil
Salt Lake City
 
Phil   Salt Lake City
 
I thought this route was pretty fun. Had some interesting tension moves down low and fun crack climbing higher up. Folks who climb cracks will probably enjoy it more than pure sport climbers. Jun 18, 2015
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
I brought a stick clip. Its not worth the fall. Apr 24, 2012
EAS Fett
  5.11c
EAS Fett  
  5.11c
The fist bolt is missing on this route. The start was harder than it looked and took a grounder with the second bolt in my face (good thing its a flat landing). Be solid at the start or bring a stick clip. Jul 14, 2010