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Routes in Bingo Baby

40 oz to Freedom S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
48 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
An Affair to Remember S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beckoning Call, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bingo Baby S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Bringer of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chockdust Torture S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cosmic Imperative S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gordon's Linkup S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gun in the Mouth Blues S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
If I Only Had a Brain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ivy Mike S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kodak Courage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Medulla Oblongata S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Milkmaid, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Remorse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Princess Di S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Protozoa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slopbuckets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tuba, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 140 total, 2/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A really good mid-11 route with a little bit of everything American Fork has to offer. Starts out essentially vertical, then the angle eases a bit, and ends up slightly overhanging.

Start with some fun liebacking movement through the first couple of bolts, move a bit higher, notice the feet disappear , so stem to the leaning slab to the right. Get back solely onto the face when able and continue up using pockets of varying usefulness (and sharpness).

Near the top the pockets get smaller and, perversely, someone turned most of them the wrong way. Feet are harder to find (but they're there), and a bit of body positioning flexibility will see it though to the chains.

Location

The right line on the face which is in front of the fixed-rope gully which is at the right side of Bingo Baby. Next to a leaning, detached slab of limestone that lies against the face containing the bolts.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

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Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I thought this route was actually pretty awesome--the rock is really good and the holds are super cool. Crux going to the anchors, for sure. Aug 6, 2014
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Hard route, but fun. Small pockets all angled the wrong way so they are less useful than they otherwise would be, interspersed with small chert crimpers. Who can resist climbing a route named after the milkmaid anyways?!

NOTE: The large flake at the bottom prior to the first bolt is very hollow sounding and can be felt moving when you give it a few thumps with your hand. If this flake fractured off it would be a significant amount of rock heading right down on your belayer. Be careful. The route can be climbed while avoiding this flake, though that does make it a bit harder. The rock above this flake to the chains is otherwise solid. Jul 30, 2012
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
 
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
 
Good climb. Had to take once because I missed a killer side-pull/under-cling pocket all together. Can't wait to come back and red-point it.
Those sharp limestone pockets can tear up fingers if you're not careful! May 31, 2012
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11b
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11b
2 cruxes. Bottom part especially if u don't cheat and stem! :) Then the upper part is dang tricky on sloping holds and poor feet. I almost took a ride there. The middle part is full of good rests. Jun 21, 2011