Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 3,465 total · 30/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Mildly technical climbing to a roof, followed by strenuous moves from poor feet to surmount the roof.

After the roof comes pumpy, slightly overhanging climbing until you traverse left onto the face after the fifth bolt. (If you go right at the fifth bolt you're on If I Only Had a Brain.)

Easier climbing to the top with good pockets (and a surprise at the end).

Location

Found at the right side of the middle section of the wall dominated by the huge roof.

This line turns the roof at the right side (there are two side-by-side bolts under the roof), just before a trough/corner. The line to the right (start of Protozoa/40 oz to Freedom) seems to always have draws on it.

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchor.

Photos

Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Fantastic route! Pulling the roof is slightly harder than pulling the roof on Gordon's Linkup, however, the head wall is a bit easier. Both routes are slightly harder than The Beckoning Call; which is also an amazing route. Do yourself a favor and go climb this route! Sep 22, 2011
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Very bouldery start that doesn't let up till about the 4th or 5th bolt. Get your fingers ready for what feels like a V4. Awesome climb. Jul 8, 2012
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Bouldery start on horrible rock; I'd recommend pre-clipping the first three bolts if you can. All of the bolts are looking pretty sketchy. There are two bolts at the second draw; the one on the right is better. Both of them look pretty marginal.

After that, stuff cleans up nicely and the upper headwall is great rock and a ton of fun. Jun 2, 2014
Ellis L
Chico, CA
 
Ellis L   Chico, CA
 
There are now bomber glue ins on the first few bolts until the split Jun 6, 2018
Steve Miller
West Jordan
 
Steve Miller   West Jordan
 
Boulder problem leads to jugs above. Jul 24, 2018