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Routes in Bingo Baby

40 oz to Freedom S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
48 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
An Affair to Remember S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beckoning Call, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bingo Baby S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Bringer of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chockdust Torture S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cosmic Imperative S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gordon's Linkup S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gun in the Mouth Blues S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
If I Only Had a Brain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ivy Mike S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kodak Courage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Medulla Oblongata S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Milkmaid, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Remorse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Princess Di S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Protozoa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slopbuckets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tuba, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 110 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

An enjoyable jaunt up less-than-vertical limestone, using some big edges and jugs, a few small pockets, and chert-edged crimps here and there.

The start is mildly intimidating, even though there is a huge jug on which to start because the move to get to and clip the second bolt is a stretch and you're close to the ground. After standing up on the big, starting jug, continue up through some fun movement using sidepulls and balance. Near the middle of the route you'll wonder where the bigger holds went; fortunately, chert comes to the rescue.

The top is a bit of fun; going far left and then cutting back to the chains is probably easier than going straight up, but not as rewarding.

Location

The left route on the face which is in front of the fixed-rope gully which is at the right side of Bingo Baby wall. Starts from a ledge on top of some lower-angled rock.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
This was a fun climb which seemed to change character about halfway up - almost like experiencing two completely different climbs in one! The bottom has large holds and solution pockets with good feet, then about halfway up those good holds quickly disappear, turning into thin chert crimpers, especially on the last 1/3 of the route and below the anchors. Jul 30, 2012