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Routes in Chadbourne Crag

Beam and Coke S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Benson bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clam, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feature Attraction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Four Deep In The Hoopti S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gray Boy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Cab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inconthievable S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Little Buddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Man's Land S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piston Bully S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Point Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Pie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tenacious Z S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vagrant Circle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Fred Henion, 1996
Page Views: 1,335 total · 12/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Aug 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

A vertical to slightly overhanging route third from the bottom of the wall. Climb slabby stone to two bolts then up a vertical flake system to a small ledge. Have a rest, clip the last bolt and fire the roof to clip the chains.

Quite good for the wall, and a good warm-up for the steeper routes uphill.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7-8 bolts. Fixed biners up top

Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
This thing looks like horrible rock from below but it's is actually pretty solid. The giant horns in the sponge like rock have some petrified guano but it didn't feel loose. Secret pockets and lie backs make up the middle 5.10 section. As tempting as it is to bail out left at the top to avoid the 11a roof, the direct route is dang fun involving an under cling pocket to help mantle over the top to the anchors. Best warmup of the 3 climbs I would consider in that genre Oct 4, 2014
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
Best petrified poop choss route ive ever been on. I kinda hate mantles and really enjoyed the one at the top once I figured it out. Neither me nor my girlfriend used the undercling pocket and it seemed a little more like 11 b or c without it just due to that being the hardest move, and somewhat of an awkward fall if you were to blow it. The rest of the climbing was engaging, but not overly puzzling.

Most importantly, don't even breathe on the choss to the left of the last bolt. Even lightly using this as a foot is going to bring a huge block down. I wouldve knocked it off but there was a distinct chance it wouldve hit my belayer or the party on the route to the right. It would be a little less of an issue if the crag was roadside... May 20, 2018

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