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Routes in Chadbourne Crag

Beam and Coke S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Benson bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clam, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feature Attraction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Four Deep In The Hoopti S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gray Boy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Cab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inconthievable S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Little Buddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Man's Land S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piston Bully S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Point Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Pie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tenacious Z S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vagrant Circle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Lazar, 1996
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Aug 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Right in front of the grove of trees uphill from Slice of Pie and the second deep cave of the crag. Climbs out steep pockets via big moves to a large rail three bolts up. The rest of the route traverses up and right on adequate holds.

This is pretty soft compared to the other .12s on the wall, and thus probably a good choice for breaking into the grade. Getting off-route at all after the fourth bolt will lead you to a garden of choss.

Protection

7 bolts. 6 had fixed draws when we did it. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea since the first moves are the hardest.

Photos

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This line starts out on super solid rock, but about half way up, it gets pretty flaky and then becomes more solid higher up. If the route is chalked up, its probably pretty solid the whole way but if you're groping for holds, beware! The movement is quite good. Jun 3, 2013