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Routes in Chadbourne Crag

Beam and Coke S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Benson bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clam, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feature Attraction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Four Deep In The Hoopti S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gray Boy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Cab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inconthievable S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Little Buddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Man's Land S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piston Bully S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Point Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Pie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tenacious Z S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vagrant Circle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 444 total · 10/month
Shared By: R O'Connor on Jul 21, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Bouldery start leads to good pockets to get a quick shake. Choose the line through the crux that suits your style then gain the block to the right. Continue right of the bolt line to pockets then follow them to the chains. The crux is down low but the pump will most likely be the biggest obstacle to success.

Location

On 2nd tier from the bottom (left) in upper cave. Left of Beam and Coke.

Protection

Bolts to anchors with chains and biners

Photos

Kipp Schorr
  5.13a
Kipp Schorr  
  5.13a
I think this is pretty fairly graded at low end 13a or hard 12d, definitely done some 13a's that are easier. The crux is for sure reach dependent (I'm 5'9 and was maxed out). To compare this route to endurance routes like teardrop or especially 40oz doesn't make much sense, I'd say it's more comparable to Malvado & El Diablo in length and difficulty. Expect some fun setup moves to one hard move down low then a bit of pump on good holds at the top. The crux section of this route has the best rock at chadbourne. Jun 22, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.12c/d
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.12c/d
More of the same only with smaller pockets. The crux between bolts 4-5 involves a long throw between two good 2 finger pockets with all sorts of ticked sucker ones nearby that people must use to make the route a lot harder for them. A connesieur of knee bars will find a decent one in the blocky corner post crux before rounding the corner into more pockets and one last deadpoint bump to good finishing jugs. The top out on this is much less stressful than beam and coke though not a cakewalk.

Again, wish this was 13a but since I can't climb 13a anywhere else I am left to suggest a high 5.12 rating since the crux feels max v5. This route doesn't compare in difficulty to cross eyed and painless or teardrop, 2 standard 13a's, or even knuckle up or 40 oz to freedom which took me several more tries and are similar styles. Oct 5, 2014

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