Elevation: 8,600 ft
GPS: 40.669, -111.761 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,827 total · 110/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Aug 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.

This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.

Getting There

First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:

Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.

Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chadbourne Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Feature Attraction
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 12
Half Cab
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Piston Bully
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
The Clam
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Gray Boy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
Beam and Coke
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Four Deep In The Hoopti
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Tenacious Z
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Feature Attraction
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Half Cab
 12
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Piston Bully
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Clam
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Gray Boy
 5
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Beam and Coke
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Four Deep In The Hoopti
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tenacious Z
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chadbourne Crag »

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