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Routes in Chadbourne Crag

Beam and Coke S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Benson bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clam, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feature Attraction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Four Deep In The Hoopti S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gray Boy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Cab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Inconthievable S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Little Buddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Man's Land S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piston Bully S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Point Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Pie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tenacious Z S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vagrant Circle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 8,600 ft
GPS: 40.669, -111.761 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,054 total, 69/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Aug 10, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Chadbourne Crag is a series of steep, pocketed limestone caves in upper Neff's Canyon. Developed in 1996 by Chad Zurinshas et al, the crag contains a couple dozen routes ranging from 5.10a to 5.13c. It's known for two things: the arduous approach and suspect rock quality, both of which are pretty much true. It's about an hour's hike from the parking lot, and while some routes consist of stone rivaling the best of American Fork Canyon, others are choss-fests resembling the worst of Hellgate. A few gems have emerged in the pocketed caves, though, most in the mid-5.12 range.

This is an excellent location for mid-summer sport climbing as it is a west-facing crag a couple thousand feet above the valley floor. Most of the lower-angled routes are quite chossy, and like Hellgate, helmets are highly recommended for belayers.

Getting There

First, make your way to the Neff's Canyon parking lot:

Take 3300 South or 3900 South to Mill Creek Canyon Road. At the four-way intersection, take a right onto Park View Drive. Follow this uphill until Park Terrace Drive on the left, then up to White Way on the right. Drive to the end of the road and park.

Take the wide Neff's Canyon trail 3/4 of a mile to the stream(bed). Stay left here and cross further upstream in a grove of Maple trees. Stay right after the flat area on a well-defined trail, climbing gradually until a slight downhill section. There will be a side trail on the right, then a small limestone boulder on the left soon afterwards. Turn right at the boulder onto a steep trail. This winds up a hillside, switchbacking up to a ridge. Follow the ridge up and eventually you'll see the limestone caves.
Plan an hour for the approach.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chadbourne Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feature Attraction
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piston Bully
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Beam and Coke
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenacious Z
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Feature Attraction 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Piston Bully 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Beam and Coke 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tenacious Z 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chadbourne Crag »

Weather Averages

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
The approach directions are good but I'll add my own comments to maybe help clarify. The distance from the parking to the turnoff is .7 miles by my gps. After crossing through the stream bed you should see a small rope swing. Head uphill from there east on the main trail. A trail leads down and left 1 min after the swing and should be ignored. 2 faker trails appear on the right as the trail flattens out before an excellent looking trail with a small cairn appears on the right before the short downhill section. This is the turnoff. If you continue down the short downhill section you will find a small 2'x2' boulder on the RIGHT not left and directly in the middle of the path that leads upwards and connects with the earlier trail. Either trail is fine as it's only 20 sec apart but the first trail is more traveled. If you hike for longer than 10 min past the swing you've missed both turns. The trail up is very steep but excellent in quality. If you feel like you're on a game trail you are not on the right trail. It's 2 miles one way and 1700' of gain. An hour was exactly right. Once you reach the ridge and get good views of Olympus it's 5-10 more minutes.

The crag itself has been well manicured. Many brand new fixed draws, lots of excellent flat platforms for belaying, and even a community stick clip if you're into that.

The routes are all ridiculously fun, better than af! They are also really soft ratings so you can feel extra strong and have your ego boosted after sending. Sep 20, 2014
Halley13
Boulder, CO
Halley13   Boulder, CO
I absolutely LOVE this piece of stone! Though somewhat slightly chossy, the climbing it creates is a blast. It's a beautiful hike, it's much cooler in the hot summer, and you can't help but have a great time. Get your thug on!!! Jun 25, 2014
Marley Nelson
Salt Lake City, Utah
Marley Nelson   Salt Lake City, Utah
My favorite 5.12's are up here. I would highly recommend going if you are getting 12's in a few goes, It sucks to project up here because of long hike(if your a gym rat) but totally worth a few day trips! Nov 12, 2013
sfotex
Sandy, UT
sfotex   Sandy, UT
For you all that have a GPS unit or smartphone with GPS,
The turnoff off the main trail is at:
N40 40.325'
W111 45.995'

The crag itself is at:
N40 40.115'
W111 45.621' Aug 28, 2011

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