Piston Bully

Next to the last bolt, looking to climbers right, there is a huge hollow flake that is about to come down. If you are climbing this don't use it, as tempting as that is. Go straight up from the second to last bolt, there are pockets to the left and you can stem into a nice stance to clip the chains. This is one of my all time favorite 12's in the Wasatch. Jun 26, 2014

Erik don't change the route without first contacting Fred Henion. He is all for safe, fun, well done routes, and will be open to your thoughts. You can find him on facebook.

We just always stay to the left up there and only use the bottom most part of the flake for a foot when clipping the chains. Jun 27, 2014

The flake sports a huge X now. It does feel alarmingly hollow but really isn't needed. The crimp rail at the base of it is nice and also sounds like shit, skipping it makes the finish a bit more challenging. It's hard not to stick on foot somewhere on the looseness to clip the chains.
It this thing comes off it won't kill your belayer who's conveniently tucked away in the cave. Your dog however... Aug 7, 2014

I remember being sketched by that flake 5 years ago or longer... clean it off already:) Aug 8, 2014

By far one of the most fun routes in the wasatch. Jugs to Heaven. A slightly harder version of teenova in af. The most hollow and fragile Part of the the X'd flake busted on us today but the majority of it remains. Oct 5, 2014

Thank you again and again to the developers for this incredible crag. This route had amazing movement, and countless single pad pockets with friendly little lips on them. The movement was great; I look forward to doing all the variations.

4 stars if the flake either gets pried off or glued. I found the way to climb around it; it isn't too bad, but not using it as a foot is quite awkward and it was crumbling underneath me. The rest of the route was so incredibly good that I felt this was possibly an oversight at a crag with reinforcement and delicate modification where it makes the routes significantly more enjoyable. I would guess this flake was either completely skipped or was holding shape better on the first ascents and so it was passed over as less of an issue. I had to wait to climb the final section until there was nobody underneath me (the other party there was moving pitches and I knew at least some small stuff would come off). I'm happy to help with this; I tried to find Fred on Facebook to no avail. May 20, 2018