Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chadbourne Crag

Beam and Coke S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Benson bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clam, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feature Attraction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Four Deep In The Hoopti S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gray Boy S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Cab S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Inconthievable S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Little Buddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Man's Land S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Piston Bully S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Point Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Pie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tenacious Z S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vagrant Circle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Fred Henion
Page Views: 1,002 total · 18/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Jun 4, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route sports the best rock from bottom to top of any route at the crag.

The first 2 bolts are the physical crux so try to get a good rest right after. Fantastic pockets and jugs the entire way.

Location

Low cave on the uphill side of it to the right of the clam (deep in the cave), and left of 4 Deep which sports heinous monos. Starts with a two finger pocket for the left, and crimp for the right.

Protection

8-9 bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Next to the last bolt, looking to climbers right, there is a huge hollow flake that is about to come down. If you are climbing this don't use it, as tempting as that is. Go straight up from the second to last bolt, there are pockets to the left and you can stem into a nice stance to clip the chains. This is one of my all time favorite 12's in the Wasatch. Jun 26, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.12b/c
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.12b/c
Erik don't change the route without first contacting Fred Henion. He is all for safe, fun, well done routes, and will be open to your thoughts. You can find him on facebook.

We just always stay to the left up there and only use the bottom most part of the flake for a foot when clipping the chains. Jun 27, 2014
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.12b
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.12b
The flake sports a huge X now. It does feel alarmingly hollow but really isn't needed. The crimp rail at the base of it is nice and also sounds like shit, skipping it makes the finish a bit more challenging. It's hard not to stick on foot somewhere on the looseness to clip the chains.
It this thing comes off it won't kill your belayer who's conveniently tucked away in the cave. Your dog however... Aug 7, 2014
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I remember being sketched by that flake 5 years ago or longer... clean it off already:) Aug 8, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.12a/b
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.12a/b
By far one of the most fun routes in the wasatch. Jugs to Heaven. A slightly harder version of teenova in af. The most hollow and fragile Part of the the X'd flake busted on us today but the majority of it remains. Oct 5, 2014
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
Thank you again and again to the developers for this incredible crag. This route had amazing movement, and countless single pad pockets with friendly little lips on them. The movement was great; I look forward to doing all the variations.

4 stars if the flake either gets pried off or glued. I found the way to climb around it; it isn't too bad, but not using it as a foot is quite awkward and it was crumbling underneath me. The rest of the route was so incredibly good that I felt this was possibly an oversight at a crag with reinforcement and delicate modification where it makes the routes significantly more enjoyable. I would guess this flake was either completely skipped or was holding shape better on the first ascents and so it was passed over as less of an issue. I had to wait to climb the final section until there was nobody underneath me (the other party there was moving pitches and I knew at least some small stuff would come off). I'm happy to help with this; I tried to find Fred on Facebook to no avail. May 20, 2018

More About Piston Bully

Printer-Friendly