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Routes in Saint Peter's Overlook

Ascension, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Athenian Arete T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Martyr, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown on the Left T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown on the Right T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 615 total, 6/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Aug 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

At the top of trail for Saint Peter's Dome, there are 2 climbs with bolts on them; this is a description of the left hand climb. I am not sure of what name the route has or who put it up, but this is a nice mixed, roof to face that is just a tad bit run-out in the middle of the climb. From the nature of the bolts, my guess is that it was bolted on lead, so it is just a little on the sporty side. Anyway here is the beta.

Park at the overlook for Saint Peter's Dome and hike to the end of the trail; approximately 0.7 miles from the parking lot. You will ascend a series of switchbacks, but the trail is overall pretty mellow. Locate the obvious bolts on the rock face at the end of the trail; basically from the point at which you could go no higher on the trail.

Start climbing a left-facing dihedral that is bisected by a small roof, which then changes to a short, right-facing dihedral. Manage to somehow get situated on a small ledge to your right and then surmount the spicy face above on nice holds, but with sparsely placed bolts in order to reach a set of Metolius rap-bolts. These rap-bolts are also shared by the route to the right. This is a very nice and challenging lead.

Location

This climb is located at the top/end of the trail from the overlook parking area.

Protection

I think that there are about 3 bolts and a few pieces of hand-sized and smaller gear are nice to have as well; maybe think about bringing some longer quickdraws and runners for the wandering nature of the bolts. We used a 70m rope, but had much spare rope left-over; I think a 50m rope would be OK.

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