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Routes in Saint Peter's Overlook

Ascension, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Athenian Arete T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Martyr, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown on the Left T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown on the Right T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,035 total, 29/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pearly Gates is the namesake route on the Pearly Gates formation. This formation is a very attractive 250' long slab just west of the Aiguille de St. Peter (The Martyr) and is clearly visible from its summit.

The (two) climbs on this slab start from a bolted belay on a ledge about 75' off the ground and are best approached by scrambling down the gully just West of the Aiguille de St. Peter. As you're heading down, head left around onto the face as soon as you are able and you'll see this ledge. They can also be approached from the base of the Aiguille, but this isn't as pleasant.

The Pearly Gates climb itself is a very fine slab climb that follows a beautiful, incipient finger crack off the left end of the ledge. There are several fixed pins on the climb, but it protects well even without these. Very sustained at the 9+ grade, Pearly Gates probably has two or three sections that check in at 5.10.

Protection

A good selection of small cams (Aliens) and small stoppers.

Photos

Chris Dickson
Telluride, Colorado
 
Chris Dickson   Telluride, Colorado
 
This is a great climb! If the bushes and funk were removed from the crack, it'd probably be 5.9, but as is, it's a fun adventure climb. Reminded me very much of Wildflowers on the Peak. To identify the climb, look up the wall for a splitter section of thin hands with a big bush in it, follow this down to the bottom and eye up the thin (and incipient) crack that begins 15 feet off the ledge. The crux is right off the ground and requires some creative and small gear (small nuts and micro-cams). Go climb it! This should get climbed as least as often as the Martyr! Jun 14, 2015
loc
colorado springs co
loc   colorado springs co
This place is awesome! Jul 1, 2010
Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
The Pearly Gates starts from the [left] end of the ledge that is in the lower right side of the picture. The pitch tops out to the right of the sun-bathed, dihedral in the upper part of the picture. To start, climb up to the ledge, traverse right to some shuts, and belay. Traverse the ledge back to the left to start the route. It is a very sustained and long pitch. The gear recommendation says bring a "good selection" of smaller cams and nuts. It is not kidding. I found the 0, 1, and 2 TCU's to be what I needed the most of. Cheers. Jul 24, 2004