5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 145 ft (44 m)|
|FA:||Mark Van Horn, early 90s|
|Page Views:||3,160 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Bosier Parsons on Jun 29, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is an incredible face climb for the grade. The climb is mostly sustained 5.8, with a couple 5.9 moves, and follows beautiful and seemingly unending edges. The first crux comes early and is well protected. The second crux comes about 3/4 height, stepping left and over a small roof feature on the right of the face. There is a nice looking hand crack through the roof on the right side, but I felt like the character of the route kept me over to the left. Classic!
This is a mostly bolted face climb that begins about 15 feet right of Pearly Gates. Approach by descending the largest gully to the west of the Martyr. Look to your left on the descent, and spot the obvious ledge with two bolts, near the bottom of the formation. You can cut in high with a scramble down to a pine tree, then traverse right to the ledge with a 5.6 move to gain the ledge. Or you can continue down and begin about 75 feet below the ledge on the easy slab or gully above. Some people may want a belay for the one 5.6 move to gain the ledge. An alternative is to bring two ropes, build an anchor at the top, and rappel to the same ledge.
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