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Routes in Saint Peter's Overlook

Ascension, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Athenian Arete T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Martyr, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pearly Gates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown on the Left T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown on the Right T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 120 total, 1/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Aug 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

At the top of trail for Saint Peter's Dome, there are 2 climbs with bolts on them; this is a description of the right hand climb. I am not sure of what name the route has or who put it up, but this is a nice mixed, face climb consisting of delicate moves if you can get over what it takes to just get on the thing. From the nature of the bolts, my guess is that it was bolted on lead, so it is just a little on the sporty side. Anyway here is the beta.

Park at the overlook for Saint Peter's Dome and hike to the end of the trail; approximately 0.7 miles from the parking lot. You will ascend a series of switchbacks, but the trail is overall pretty mellow. Locate the obvious bolts on the rock face at the end of the trail; basically from the point at which you could go no higher on the trail.

Start from a difficult opening move to mount the top of a horizontal flake, making an inspiring move or 2 to get to a nice horizontal break from which you can clip the first bolt. There is no pro for the opening moves, so a spot would probably help inspire your confidence just a bit. Mantle up to reach the second horizontal break, and then wander about some to get to the second bolt. The climb ascends the face above to a set of Metolius rap-bolts (on the left) that are shared by 2 routes.

Location

This climb is located at the top/end of the trail from the overlook parking area.

Protection

I think that there are about 4 bolts and a few pieces of smaller gear are nice to have as well; maybe think about bringing some longer quickdraws and runners for the wandering nature of the bolts. We used a 70m rope, but had much spare rope left-over; I think a 50m rope would be OK.

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Drew Kelly
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Drew Kelly   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Is this climb located at a place called "The Sanctum"? It's an off-width for the first two thirds of the climb, right? Or is that not listed on this website? Oct 21, 2012