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Routes in 5. The Apron
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Bert's Right Facing Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Black Velvet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Friction Rider T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slab Happy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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White Owl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 44.00381, -71.90965 |
| FA: | unkown, late 1980's |
| Page Views: | 1,262 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Jul 23, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
"Modern Route Description" (bu MtnPrjct user IraOMC)
tart at the toe of rock just right of the Beak (or Nose) Buttress. Look for a horizontal crack 20 feet up. Above this is the first bolt. Follow spaced bolts up an easy licheny slab to a runout between bolts 3 and 4 (5.6 R). The route trends rightwards as the grade increases, then return left aiming for a black headwall just to the side of the beak buttress. Surmount this, then clip 3 more bolts on the up a black slab to a 2 bolt anchor.
Rappel with 2 ropes, or use trees on climbers left to do multiple rappels.
The old bolts on this route were replaced in November 2025, thanks to a donation from The ASCA.
Original Description -
Comment - Bradley White (not to be confused with the Brad White who ran the IMC climbing school for years) was a climbing character, to say the least. He roamed the backwoods and main cliffs of NH seeking out lines to climb, many of which probably have not had second ascents. Often soloing 5.8-5.9 slab that was interspaced with mossy and vegetated sections ( and exits especially !), and/or roped climbing new routes on what would be called today "marginal" rock (eg his routes on Cannon) he put in a multitude of routes throughout the White Mtns. I only climbed with him once, at the very twilight of his career before he moved out West, but at that time he gave me permission to edit any of his MtnPrjct submissions. The one below, the original description of the route, I left intact. Bob Hall, Admin Nov 2025
Note-It looks like “Bradley’s Route” avoids the crux section with a 60ft variation around it.
The entire climb is sustained face and friction. It starts out 5-7 and gets harder (5-8+) in thirty ft and then to sustained (5-9) 50ft to friction bulges (5-9+). After the bulges easier up to the big boulder on the beak route. It was a top rope climb. It got bolted late 80's. It was a top rope I couldn't get through the crux section. I couldn't get through the mid section without being paranoid in 2002. The bolts were deteriorated. I moved right into a right facing corner (5-9) and climbed it instead, midway on the climb. I got in some decent stoppers (1 got fixed by accident). It's a decent corner. After the corner I moved left, back onto this route and escaped higher up onto the Beak Buttress.
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