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Routes in Visionary Wall

Barbie Twins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dag Nasty S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop the Clutch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eye Opener S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tank Trap S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks For Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zorba the Greek S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A devious line with thin holds, balancy moves, and a strenuous, iron cross-like move.

Start up on the smooth face below the small roof, working the small crimps, sidepulls and footholds. The second clip is balancy and a bit thought-provoking. Find a way to get past the roof, rest a bit, and then wonder where the holds went.

A bit of desperate arete-pinching later, come to a couple of (relatively) larger holds and figure out the next bulge problem. Finally, clip the last bolt and head for the anchors.

Location

The bolted line to the left of the chimney (Barbie Twins) with the yellow triangle of rock. The first two bolts are on and just left of a thin face; the third is above a small roof.

Protection

5 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Barbie Twins to the right).

Photos

Maybe I was doing it wrong...I don't remember doing an "Iron Cross" move...a bit slippery but great to work on! Once your feet are above the roof, the difficulty eases considerably. (I will admit, I did not redpoint this yet. I worked it for a while and was able to do almost all the moves) Aug 29, 2009
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11c/d
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11c/d
This is a superb climb with very peculiar moves that is unlike other AF climbs. Take your time and you'll figure it out. Jul 22, 2009