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Routes in Visionary Wall

Barbie Twins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dag Nasty S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop the Clutch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eye Opener S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tank Trap S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks For Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zorba the Greek S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Bailey
Page Views: 2,532 total · 24/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A wonderful stemming problem in an overhanging corner.

Start up through the dusty beginning using small feet and lieback handholds where the thin corner crack opens up enough to accept fingertips. Delicate stemming with a big move or two is required to the fourth bolt (getting to the fourth bolt is a relief—it feels like a long way from the third).

At this point the angle eases a bit and the holds get bigger. Continue up and stand atop a ledge on the left, then finish with the last eight or ten feet of face climbing to the anchors.

Location

The right-facing corner at the bottom left of the gully.

Protection

7 bolts (+1 optional, manky pin), ring anchors.

Photos

jtwalter
Orem, UT
 
jtwalter   Orem, UT
 
If more people knew about this route you'd have to wait in line to get on it. Stellar. Jul 22, 2009
Craziness! It looks like an easy finger-locking steep corner. The stemming put me in strange positions and the feet were either dirty or slippery. The bolts were close together on the easy parts and far apart in through the crux (weird). Altogether, it is fun as it is so unusual. Aug 29, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This thing is rad!!! I don't think I've ever done so many dropknees and other funky body positioning on any route. Seemed stiff for .10c but man, what a route! Aug 30, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
There are just some routes that words can't describe. I am not an AF guru but this has to be one of the most unique climbs in the canyon. It is also one that I think I will climb each time I go there. Clipping the 4th bolt is very committing. Emotionally I just know I am going to hit the ground if I blow it even though logically I know it won't happen. Walt is right...there would be a line if more people cared to go there instead of Membrane. Sep 4, 2009
I was on this route today and went for a undercling just above the first bolt and it broke....it's bigger now sorry :-/ Oct 22, 2011
Tony G
 
Tony G  
 
This climb is so fun. Totally worth the hike, a must do. Sep 22, 2013
Gub
  5.10+
Gub  
  5.10+
Definitely one of my favorite 10s. Definitely a mental game, as the bolt spacing is pretty far through a powerful section. Nevertheless, very fun and a must-do. Aug 19, 2014

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