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Routes in Visionary Wall

Barbie Twins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dag Nasty S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop the Clutch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eye Opener S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tank Trap S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks For Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zorba the Greek S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b


A great crag for hot afternoons, Visionary Wall is in a steep, east-facing gully with the routes on the north-facing wall of the gully. This, combined with many trees allows for shade most of the day. Add a nearby stream that runs for most of the spring and summer, and this crag is a pleasant location.

The routes are mostly steep, fairly tricky affairs with none of the standard American Fork pockets and lots of devious edges.
Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Getting There

Walk up Tank Canyon and follow the trail on the east (right) of the streambed. The trail will cross the streambed heading north and then immediately turn east (right). Continue following the trail through a grove of evergreens and then step over some tree roots and a short steep section to walk to the left of the stream.

The trail (and stream) turns north again (left); follow the trail past two gullies on the left. Just before the third gully a bolted route will appear on a limestone outcropping that almost reaches to the streambed. This is the first route. Look up the gully and you'll see constructed belay landings.

About a 12-minute walk.

Route List

Left side (south) side of the gully, starting at the bottom (i.e., left-to-right).

1. Eye Opener 5.10b
2. The Vision 5.12c
3. project
4. Tank Trap 5.10c (a corner crack)
5. Zorba The Greek 5.12a
6. Gemini 5.11c
7. Barbie Twins 5.10a (chimney)
8. Dag Nasty 5.10d
9. Drop the Clutch 5.11c
10. Inky 5.12a
11. Tanks For Nothing (to corner anchor) 5.7
12. project
13. project

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Visionary Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbie Twins
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tank Trap
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Barbie Twins 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Tank Trap 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Visionary Wall »

Weather Averages

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BJB   Texas

Maybe this description makes sense when the stream is running, but when it's dry, I looked for about 1 1/2 hours before I found this area. This is my description of the approach ASSUMING THE STREAM IS DRY:

Follow the stream until you reach a big cliff that reaches almost into the streambed. This wall has one bolted route on it. This is Bug Bananas from the miscellaneous routes.

(If you stay on the right side of the stream, you are going to walk past Two O'Clock Rock and the miscellaneous route Warthog before you get to the Visionary / Old School area)

Keep following the stream bed past Bug Bananas. On your left in (I believe) the next gully/canyon, you will see obvious belay ledges on the left side of the gully. The left wall/side of the gully is Visionary Wall. The right wall/side of the gully is Old School. Aug 4, 2015
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
The approach directions for this crag can be made very simple. Follow the stream bed, using whatever trail system that you find. This is the first climbable chunk of rock that you will find on the left side of the stream. It begins immediately out of the stream bed and continues up the hill. The rock is of very good quality and tends to be vertical to less than vertical in most places. If visiting in the summer, it may be best to arrive in the afternoon to avoid having the climber and belayer looking up into the sun. Jul 27, 2015
Fantastic Wall! Good shade...enjoy it now before the word gets out. The landings were really appreciated (thanks to whomever did all the work). But a better trail up the gully would be a good idea. Aug 29, 2009

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