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Routes in Visionary Wall

Barbie Twins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dag Nasty S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop the Clutch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eye Opener S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inky S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tank Trap S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks For Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vision, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zorba the Greek S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 145 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A well-protected, long route with wonderfully diverse movement.

Start up with tricky-but-not-difficult moves past the first bolt, and make a somewhat strenuous clip on the second bolt. Getting past the second bolt is the crux of the route, requiring careful body positioning, clever use of the holds that exist, and primarily, faith that it really can be done.

After the second bolt continue up through all sorts of movement, including delicate face moves, semi-burly liebacking, balancy sidepulling, etc.

After the sixth bolt start trending right, following the finger/hand crack. Surmount a series of narrow ledges on your way to the anchors at the top.

Location

On the left of the gully (facing uphill), this route is the first bolted line to the right of the chimney containing the yellowish, triangular rock.

Protection

10 bolts, double-ring anchors. It's easiest to clean while following on toprope, but cleaning is doable while being lowered.

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10d
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10d
This is my favorite 10d in AF. It has so many great features that it is a blast to climb and its long! The Visionary Wall setting is a very beautiful area to climb and in the shade. Thanks to the Visionaries who developed this area. The second bolt is definitely the crux with a barn door you get to navigate. Jul 20, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10d
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10d
WOW!! Kip was right. This is a great route and a little bit of a puzzler. I was fortunate to have the streaming beta going from bolt 2 to 3. Even then it took a couple of goes. Fun moves throughout and it just keeps on going. Don't get worried if you start getting pumped...there are several "no hands" rests along the way. Jul 22, 2009
R O'Connor  
 
One of the hardest and the coolest 10ds I have done. I'd like to see the 10d beta at the bottom because it felt about 11b to me. Jul 22, 2011

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