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Routes in Jewels and Gems

D1 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Diamond and Coal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Family Jewels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Digger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In The Buff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In The Rough T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Country Club Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pearl necklace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shaky Spider T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: David Lent, Nick Gully, Jeremy Degroff
Page Views: 177 total · 2/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

42 Opinions

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Climb the broken, unappealing rock below the small roof and pull through the roof (crux), passing a bolt along the way, to a hand-sized crack. Follow the crack to easier, albeit dirty, rock above with a little space between protection. Belay off of trees at the top.

Opinion: This seems like a very very very easy 5.8+. No where near the burlfest of the similarly-graded Clutch and Cruise.


Start: Approximately 50 left of the start for North Country Club Crack at a section of broken rock. There is a small roof with a single bolt below the roof.
Descent: There is no fixed anchor at the top. Either follow the walk-off trail down from the top or walk down to the fixed anchor for North Country Club Crack.


One bolt below the small roof. No fixed anchors at the top.


Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
If someone wants to add more detailed gear info or anything else, post a comment and I'll amend the route info. It's been a while since I climbed this so my memory isn't as clear. Jul 18, 2009
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
I think your description is spot on, and I would amend it at all. Your description allows the climber to judge what gear will/will not work, and if he/she wants to climb it at all. I agree, this route is a bit easy in the grade, AND very dirty to boot!! Jul 19, 2009
Jay Piasecki
Keene Valley, NY
Jay Piasecki   Keene Valley, NY
Really just a one move wonder at the lone bolt... still a fun route none the less. Despite other accounts the runout slab isn't that dirty. (And it's only 5.3-5.4 for 20 ft.) Apr 3, 2010
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
Loose and dirty start, fun moves pulling through the roof! Then a short crack climb to the top! May 17, 2012
I didn't find it dirty at all. One move wonder..yes. It's really a good introductory 5.8. You have to clip the bolt from a stance that isn't perfect, then keep moving for a few moves. I would take away the +. May 3, 2014

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