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Routes in Jewels and Gems

D1 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Diamond and Coal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Family Jewels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Digger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In The Buff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In The Rough T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Country Club Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pearl necklace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shaky Spider T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Patrick and Mary Purcell, 5/8/85
Page Views: 4,559 total · 34/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A hand crack to climb time and time again.

NCCC is the first route you encounter when you get up to the cliff. It doesn't get much more obvious that this--jam the low angle hand crack to the top, passing a large, unstable blocky roof to the right. The crux comes at about 2/3 height where a few high feet and some trust in the friction gods gets you to a bucket and great feet.

For the anchor: Either sling the tree WITH YOUR OWN cordelette and belay your second up, or lower off. (Note: The tree at the top of the route is slung with webbing and rap rings; however, that does NOT mean one should occupy this for the purpose of toproping, nor should you trust its integrity.)

Location

RIght in front of you as you get to the cliff...you won't miss it.

Protection

A standard rack with some hand size pieces. Cordelette and some lockers for the anchor.

Photos

Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.6
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.6
Really great climb. Right leaning crack with options. Takes good pro. Worth stopping at Jewels and Gems just for this climb. Guidebook lists the climb at 70 ft. Aug 29, 2009
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Sustained 5.6 moves. Not a gimme. Jun 7, 2011
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome warm up route, kind of polished in places and gets soaked after the rain. Great climbing however. May 17, 2012
Frank Abissi
Grand Rapids, MI
 
Frank Abissi   Grand Rapids, MI
 
This route is too much fun not to be a classic Mar 18, 2015
Francis QC
Montreal
 
Francis QC   Montreal
 
I found the blocks of rock at the top of the climb weren't fantastic. I felt several of them moved a little when holding on them. With time these might become a concern. Apr 13, 2015
TSluiter
Holland, VT
  5.6
TSluiter   Holland, VT
  5.6
Awesome climb! First 1/2 is nice and sustained, some interesting positions, quite fun. Takes real nice pro all the way through, easy to sew up. 5.4-5 climbing on the last third. Didn't notice any loose blocks. Jul 16, 2015
NESteve
Lake Placid, NY
NESteve   Lake Placid, NY
Awsome one of the dacks best pitches! Aug 16, 2015
JSH

JSH    
As of Memorial Day 2016, no anchor on the tree. May 31, 2016
Stephen Waud
Burlington, VT
Stephen Waud   Burlington, VT
As of today 6/18/16 there is a sling w/ rings on the tree. Jun 18, 2016

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