Diamond and Coal
Avg: 2.7 from 42 votes
Routes in Jewels and Gems
|D1 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Diamond and Coal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Family Jewels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gold Digger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|In The Buff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|In The Rough T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|North Country Club Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pearl necklace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Shaky Spider T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd, 7/9/85|
|Page Views:||233 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Jul 6, 2007|
DescriptionD&C climbs both sides of an aesthetic, hourglass-shaped feature plastered to the main wall, as well as the adjoining left face and upper left-facing corner (so as to maintain its' independence from North Country Club Crack on the left). This route serves up no definitive crux, just solid, well-protected face climbing with a very short and enjoyable crack section at the top of the route right before you move left to the anchor.
Unlike the other noteworthy routes at this craglet, Diamond and Coal is NOT a crack climb. In fact, it would be more fitting to find this route at the Gunks littered with non-stop traffic and not on a sleepy roadside cliff in the heart of the Adirondacks. Nevertheless, Diamond and Coal is a hidden gem among the harder, more traveled lines in Keene Valley and should not be missed even if you climb harder grades. And it is also a fun climb for beginners, and it is a great way to warm down at the end of the day.
LocationLocate the hourglass-shaped feature on the right side of the crag. Diamond and Coal begins on the right side of this feature, then crosses over it to the left side when the first opportunity arises.
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