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Routes in Jewels and Gems

D1 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Diamond and Coal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Family Jewels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Digger TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In The Buff T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In The Rough T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Country Club Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pearl necklace T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shaky Spider T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd, 7/9/85
Page Views: 233 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

D&C climbs both sides of an aesthetic, hourglass-shaped feature plastered to the main wall, as well as the adjoining left face and upper left-facing corner (so as to maintain its' independence from North Country Club Crack on the left). This route serves up no definitive crux, just solid, well-protected face climbing with a very short and enjoyable crack section at the top of the route right before you move left to the anchor.

Unlike the other noteworthy routes at this craglet, Diamond and Coal is NOT a crack climb. In fact, it would be more fitting to find this route at the Gunks littered with non-stop traffic and not on a sleepy roadside cliff in the heart of the Adirondacks. Nevertheless, Diamond and Coal is a hidden gem among the harder, more traveled lines in Keene Valley and should not be missed even if you climb harder grades. And it is also a fun climb for beginners, and it is a great way to warm down at the end of the day.

Location

Locate the hourglass-shaped feature on the right side of the crag. Diamond and Coal begins on the right side of this feature, then crosses over it to the left side when the first opportunity arises.

Protection

Gear. Nothing larger than a red Camalot.

Tree anchor at the top.

Photos

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JSH

JSH    
No anchor on the tree as of Memorial Day 2016.

There is better gear than you might see from the ground, in the horizontals. May 31, 2016
TSluiter
Holland, VT
  5.6
TSluiter   Holland, VT
  5.6
Agree with Kevin, funky variation on the left worth doing, could go at 5.8.

Awesome and varied climb, great for a new leader Jul 29, 2015
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Sleeper climb - 5.7 variation very stiff to start (maybe 8-ish). Great moves, liked it as much as NCCC. May 20, 2012
doligo
  5.7
doligo  
  5.7
Did the bouldery start 5.7 variation - great route. Lots of horizontals - bring tricams. Jun 1, 2010
AGH
 
AGH  
 
Shares an anchor with NCCC. Tree is currently slung with 3 1" tied runners and 2 rap rings. As of July 6 '07 they are in good shape and the tree is bomber. Jul 9, 2007