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Routes in (9) New School Wall

Dad's Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gophers Gone Wild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Nuts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numb Nuts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 6,371 total, 61/month
Shared By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Description

Impressive line of bolts lead you into large, right-facing dihedral system. Climb past broken face and dihedral system to ledge. Tricky move off ledge, through face to belay anchor.

Location

Furthest route left before trail elevates to Old School Wall.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

tsherry
Portland, OR
 
tsherry   Portland, OR
 
Babies first lead climb. Nice warm up route. Oct 16, 2015
Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
  5.8
Jeff Hofheins 1   Portland, OR
  5.8
I love this route. It has a bit of everything and lots of bolts. I don't know why people complain about all the bolts. (eyesore maybe?) If you don't want to clip them all, skip some. BEAUTIFUL view! Aug 27, 2015
Marielle Breneman
Portland, OR
 
Marielle Breneman   Portland, OR
 
This was one of my first few outdoor leads, and am grateful to my friends for the suggestion. The closely spaced bolts make the route feel safer and the falls are relatively clean.

I might not necessarily suggest this as someone's very first outdoor lead, but maybe more like after they have just a handful or so under their belt. It's really a great climb!

Note: 70m rope is useful. 60m rope might be cutting it a bit short. Jun 29, 2015
Definitely requires the FULL 60m rope if not more. If you have chopped either ends, don't expect to make it down to the ground. Like the others said, great route to learn on since it has soooo many bolts. May 14, 2014
Teh Phuzzy  
 
oodles+ I brought up 14 qd's and used them all plus my anchors at the top. Great beginner lead climb and the view at the top completes it. Everything at O-Zone has a great view at the top. Jun 8, 2010
joet trap
Amherst, MA
 
joet trap   Amherst, MA
 
great 5.8 lead for a beginner at this grade -- oodles of bolts! Oct 18, 2009