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Routes in (9) New School Wall

Dad's Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gophers Gone Wild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Nuts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numb Nuts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 1,161 total, 11/month
Shared By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Reach large belay ledge, climbing right from 2nd bolt of 'No Nuts' or direct, from protected bulging face at tree. Climbs up intimidating block & crack system, to top of wall.

Location

Start same for 'No Nuts' or, shimmy straight up from tree, 10ft up & right (past bolt to gain ledge).

Protection

Gear to 3.5"

Photos

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Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.9
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.9
Pretty good route, I'd give it 2.5 stars if I could. I didn't feel that it was any harder than nearby No Nuts (5.9).

You probably can't sew this route up with gear - there are good placements, but there's junk in between. A long, clean fall with gear below your feet awaits you at most of the harder sections (the route is overhung most of the way). Pretty safe, but a bit spooky.

There isn't much loose rock on this route any more. But there are gigantic blocks that I put cams behind... They're big enough that I doubt they'd move, but I was motivated not to fall.

Worth doing. Aug 14, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10a
Not a bad route. Pretty stout for 5.9. Couple loose rocks, but mostly good. Protects well. For starting, best to start up No Nuts, and run it out to the anchors that start Dad's Nuts. May 25, 2016
another Chad
5.9+ PG13
another Chad  
5.9+ PG13
The loose rock on this route is unnerving.


Chad Feb 6, 2014