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Routes in (9) New School Wall

Dad's Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gophers Gone Wild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Nuts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numb Nuts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 1,889 total, 18/month
Shared By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Climb right of tree, on porous rock, to large ledge. Pull through large dihedral, then traverse right onto face. Romp to top.

Location

Starts right of mossy buttress, 20ft up & right from 'Small Nuts'.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
 
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
 
A really heady 5.9 but there it gets to be a bit of a thriller.

Despite the threat of taking a fall into tons of pointy ledges and blocks this is a very fun climb.

Make sure your rope is at least 60m and take note that your belay spot is on a fairly steep incline. Dec 13, 2015
Brunt Tornton
NH
  5.9
Brunt Tornton   NH
  5.9
I wouldn't say PG13...but probably not a good intro to the grade on lead. Falling onto one of the several ledges on this route would not be very fun. May 8, 2015
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.9
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.9
I'm not sure what time of year this is likely to be an issue, but be aware that there's a small trickle of water that runs right over the crux holds and slimes up the lichen/moss that's on them. This can make for a pretty heady lead, since you have to traverse right through these moves and will swing a bit if you slip off.

If memory serves you can see this sludge from the ground so I'd look for it before heading up. Sep 10, 2010
Ebb Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
  5.9
Ebb Ebbing   Vancouver, WA
  5.9
Caution! Watch your rope length. The first time we climbed this, what we thought was a 60m rope didn't quite make it all the way to the ground when lowering on belay (but it was only a matter of a few feet). The belayer needed to take a couple steps up the start of the route to get the climber to the ground. More recently however, (climbing with a brand new 60m rope) we had at least 10 - 15 feet of rope left with both of us on the ground. May 19, 2010